Yeon
Yeon serves elevated Korean set menus inspired by the traditions of Jeonju, a city in Korea near Seoul.
Two multi-course Korean court cuisine menus are priced at $35 and $98 per person.
The former centres around upscale Jeonju-style bibimbap, and the latter is more of a series of small plates.
Both menus begin with a welcoming dish of dehydrated veg and fruit. Ours includes lotus root, fig, sweet potato, thick salty sheets of seaweed, and most interestingly, jujubes (a sweet date-like fruit).
Daeha Naengchae is apparently a take on "a major royal court dish." Slices of scallop, octopus, Korean pear and persimmon are stacked on top of each other, topped with a large prawn and dressed with a pine nut citrus sauce.
The combination of ingredients feels unlikely but works pretty well, almost like an artsy surf and turf.
Gu Jeol Pan translates roughly to "platter of nine delicacies," a popular royal court appetizer.
Tiny piles of impeccably sliced beef, shiitake, zucchini, cucumber, carrot, egg white and egg yolk are meant to be wrapped up in chewy little crepes and dipped in a mustard vinegar sauce.
A Modeum Jeon course is also part of both menus, a chef's selection of pan-fried items. Today's are a crunchy, mild lotus root, a lovely shrimp with chive, a very fishy oyster and a spicy chive salad.
Tang Pyeong Chae feels similar to japchae with beef and veggies, but with chunkier noodles made of mung bean jelly. A mustard vinegar dressing for this course is a little more citrus-y than the one served with the crepes.
Junbok Jim sees simmered abalone presented in its shell with barley, mushroom and raw ginger root, plus funky black garlic on the side.
Galbi Gui is a standout, so pace your eating before this point. Grilled beef short rib with a pear marinade is tender and flavourful, presented minimally with single pieces of oyster mushroom and asparagus.
Bibimbap directly follows the Modeum Jeon on the $35 menu. Jeonju-style presentation dictates the way the dish is deconstructed into a bowl of seventeen ingredients, rice, egg, bulgogi, chili paste, soup and pickled side dishes, diners intended to mix everything together.
A special Goongjoong Sinseollo dish for two is available only on Fridays and Saturdays in limited quantities for a $58 upcharge.
Ingredients like pan-fried abalone, beef, fish, shrimp, veggies, shiitake and meatballs are arranged symmetrically so two people can share.
Both menus finish off with Korean tea and refreshments. A rotating tea such as omija berry is paired with rice cakes stuffed with red bean paste, shortbread with honey, a persimmon walnut roll, and jujube and ginger jelly bites.
Wine, beer, Korean liquor and a range of traditional hot and cold beverages are available to pair with your meal.
Yeon's 32-seat space is compact but sophisticated thanks to dim lighting and a heavy colour palette.
Hector Vasquez