Vinoteca Pompette
Vinoteca Pompette, a charming French-Italian restaurant and re-imagination of the Michelin-recommended restaurant Pompette, opened a couple of months ago after a thoughtful transformation.
Nestled in the heart of Little Italy, this spot at the corner of College and Clinton features an extensive wine list, elegant cocktails, creative antipasti, homemade pasta dishes, and a popular peppercorn steak burger.
The menu has something for everyone, and judging by the busy tables, the space is on its way to becoming a community favourite - just as the owners intended.
Co-owners Martine (Chef) and Jonathan Bauer (Sommelier), the husband-and-wife duo behind sister establishments Bar Pompette and Bakery Pompette, envisioned creating a place where they would love to dine as customers on the regular.
Together with Maxime Hoerth (Barman and Co-Owner), they crafted a concept that moved away from fine dining, focusing instead on a simple, seasonal approach that pays tribute to their French roots and the neighbourhood.
"Our philosophy stayed the same," shared Martine and Jonathan Bauer. "We kept the same suppliers and are doing things the same way we used to with respect to the product, using seasonal, local food as much as possible. We try to put a lot less technique in the dishes, but still showcase good food."
Starting with drinks, the cocktails marry the elegance of French mixology with the flavours of Italy.
The Cafe Corretto ($20) is not your average espresso martini. It's made with grappa, amaro, espresso syrup, and cold brew, and has a parmesan essence for a hint of umami.
Another twist is the Pistachio Negroni ($22). Italian vermouth, bitters, and gin are mixed with a pistachio paste and cooked sous vide overnight and filtered.
"When you read a menu, and you see the ingredients, we want you to feel them because sometimes you go to your bar and you see so many things, but you don't taste them," described Jonathan.
With all of the cocktails, the hero ingredients shined in a way that lent beautifully to the food.
But before we can talk about food, we have to dive into the wine. After all, pompette does translate to tipsy in French.
The restaurant offers a large selection by the glass or bottle, featuring over 300 references on their wine list.
If you don't know where to start, try the wine flights. The tasting is tailored to your preference and comes with three 2.5 oz glasses. The White: Chardonnay Isn't Just From California ($35) started with a dry, crispy chardonnay and finished with a richer, full-bodied oak.
Many of the wines come from Pelican Wine Imports, a small wine and spirit agency co-owned by Jonathan. His enthusiasm for finding you the perfect pairing is apparent, expertly detailing the region of the wine and the flavour profiles.
The Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon ($26) was bright, aromatic, and earthy. When I tasted close, there was a hint of roasted tomatoes.
Moving on to antipasto and mains, if anyone is qualified to blend French and Italian cuisine, it's Chef Martine. The Top Chef Canada contestant worked in numerous French establishments and a Michelin Star Italian restaurant during her years living in Paris.
The Whipped Ricotta, Zaatar, Anchovy ($11) comes on a crunchy sourdough tartine. The beautifully piped ricotta is light and fluffy. Its sweetness pairs well with the saltiness of the anchovies.
My favourite dish was the Mussel 'Nduja ($17). The mussels are done in a simple tomato base with a spicy Calabrese andouille beurre blanc.
The pork sausage adds an incredible flavour to the dish, and there's a lovely crunch from the added croutons. The sauce was thick and luscious, and I admit I started eating it with a spoon once all the mussels were finished.
All of their pasta is made in-house. The Parisian Gnocchi ($28) is the only dish that's remained the same from the days of Restaurant Pompette.
Unlike Italian gnocchi, Parisian gnocchi is made with choux pastry paste. The small dumplings were incredibly fluffy and came in a decadent mushroom cream sauce, topped with thinly sliced chives.
The Ravioli Dauphiné with Comté Cheese ($24) is a classic French dish originating from the southeast part of France near Léon. Complemented by comté, ricotta, and squash, it's finished in an Italian brown butter and sage sauce.
For something comforting, try the Pappardelle al Ragu ($29). It features a rich Venetian duck confit ragu that melts in your mouth and pairs well with the thick strands of pappardelle.
The Cavatelli of the Moment ($25) was a play on cacio e pepe made with beautiful sweet corn.
Another standout dish is the Risotto al Salto and Bone Marrow ($32). The saffron risotto milanese is added to a skillet and cooked until golden brown and crisp. It comes with an indulgent polenta and parmigiano cream foam and a massive bone marrow on the side.
The buttery bone marrow is meant to be scooped on top of the risotto as you enjoy, and after having this dish, I want all my risotto done crispy.
The fun part is when you're done with the bone marrow, you can add on the Marsala Luge ($5). This boozy bone marrow luge is meant to pick up any residual marrow for an umami overload in your mouth.
Now for the coveted Burger 'Steak au Poivre' ($28). This French spin on a classic burger is a pandemic takeout creation that’s become a customer favourite. Served medium rare, the burger is topped with a creamy green peppercorn sauce made with cognac and gruyere cheese.
The final main, that I would absolutely order again, was the Whole Branzino ($45). This mild, white fish is very popular in Italian cuisine and in Vinoteca Pompette fashion, is done with a chive beurre blanc. Perfect for sharing, the fish is flaky, light, and has a lovely smokiness from being cooked on a barbecue grill.
For dessert, the Vanilla Soft Serve ($7) with honey, olive oil, and fennel pollen is delicious. The rich, slightly spicy olive oil contrasts well with the sweetness of the vanilla.
The Tiramisu ($12) is a classic rendition with creamy espresso-soaked ladyfingers and is one of the best I've ever had (don't tell my nonna).
The Olive Oil Cake ($11) was incredibly light, fragrant, and tender. Topped with ricotta, it goes well with the vanilla soft serve.
Embracing the coziness of a French-inspired bistro, the restaurant features soft ambient lighting, warm wooden accents, an intimate bar, and large windows that create a harmonious flow between the indoor and outdoor space.
It offers the perfect backdrop for any occasion, whether catching up with friends, enjoying a family dinner, or planning your next date night.
Vinoteca Pompette is located at 597 College Street.
Fareen Karim