Toro Taqueria
Toro Taqueria is a lively outdoor spot serving traditional tacos on King West. From the same owners as Silent H, the restaurant trades in quality, casual fare that's not hard to like.
Despite its profusion of restaurants, King West falls short for diners too busy, too hungry or, let's face it, too broke to commit to a full-service meal. Though not exactly reasonable, what Toro Taqueria offers is a quick fix that's fresh, tasty and speedy.
"This is chef's passion project" explains social media manager for the brand, Gina Shkeda. "He's been with the company for a while but this is his own creation. He used to own a taqueria in Mexico and wanted to bring that to Toronto."
Since mid-June, the aroma of sizzling meat, allure of hot pink signage and upbeat thrum of Latin music have inspired passersby to venture southward from King Street to see what they might find.
At the taqueria, as at Silent H, Mexican-born chef Gerardo Álvarez Saucedo keeps the focus on traditional recipes made with top-quality ingredients. "Everything is so authentic," gushes Shkeda.
Where Silent H leans high-end, the taqueria is anything but. It's a comfortable patio (there are no interior tables) where flowers — draped casually across the overhang and jumping off of imported oilcloth table covers — lend the space its only pops of colour.
On the menu? A succinct list of street-food favourites made with Saucedo's personal recipes. With just three taco options on offer, plus a couple of appetizers and a simple drink list, ordering is as simple as the space itself.
Built on supple corn tortillas sourced from El Trompo, the team's tacos are small but generously filled. Each one — from Taco Pastor ($6.75) and Taco Asada ($6.75) to Taco Pollo Asado ($6.75)— relies on tender meat that's marinated and grilled, then heated on a plancha until piping hot and slightly charred.
Arguably the best part? The display of fresh-made salsas that allows you to customize your tacos at will.
True, the team's tacos consist of nothing more than two tortillas holding a fistful of meat. Pile on some verde cremoso, pico de gallo, salsa de piña and other garnishes, though, and they'll spring to life as they shed their spartan look.
Before, alongside, or even after a taco trio, Frijoles Charros ($3.75) and Guacamole ($7.25) are the padding that make tacos feel like a meal. A soupy rendition of the former, the team's beans are a comforting dish, rich with pork, whispers of garlic and herbs.
Served with house-made tortillas chips, traditional guacamole is bright with tomato, jalapeño and lime.
If time and circumstances allow, a Modelo ($9.00) makes the perfect patio partner. If not? House-made Agua Jamaica ($5.25) or Agua Mango Colada ($5.25) offer the same amount of refreshment without the alcohol.
Imported options, like Mexican Coke ($3.50) and juicy, tropical-flavoured Jarritos ($3.50), are also on offer.
The menu's sole dessert, Tres Leches ($7.25) is a creamy, thick, pudding-like take on the moist Mexican go-to. Though it goes above and beyond its name with four milks — evaporated, condensed, 2% and heavy cream — it's a somewhat forgettable ending best reserved for diners with serious sweet teeth to appease.
Toro Taqueria is located at 461 King Street West.
Fareen Karim