Sushi Yugen
Sushi Yugen is tucked away in the Financial District on the Adelaide side of the Medcan building.
Catering to Sushi Yugen's financial district demographic, the main 12-seat dining area offers a 45-minute lunch menu of 13 courses for $80 per person; return for dinner for a 14-course meal at $98 per person.
A stunningly peaceful and elegant space that contrasts its 'hustle and bustle' surroundings, Sushi Yugen shows of the mastery of Chef Kyohei Igarashi.
Getting his start studying in Yamagata, Japan, Chef Igarashi has perfected both high-end sushi crafting as well as kaiseki techniques (preparing small, intricate dishes) over the past 15 years.
Examples of Chef's kaiseki expertise can be seen in dishes such as the delicate Somen noodles, sitting in a three-fish dashi broth with edible flower petals.
"Chef Igarashi's unwavering passion to share the delights of truly exceptional sushi worldwide had led him to Toronto, with the desire to enrich the city's vibrant culinary scene," shares Kamen Sun - operator and co-owner alongside Rocco Wang - on behalf of the chef.
At the main counter, playful drinks like the Matcha Highball ($18.00) – matcha liqueur with a hint of yuzu, Junmai sake and fine Kyoto matcha powder – are served.
Within the quaint and minimalistic space are two intentionally distinct dining rooms and experiences.
For those who want to indulge in premium ingredients and witness a refined artistry, you can now do so at Sushi Yugen's newly opened 8-seat, intimate chef's counter.
An experience running roughly two and a half hours long, the dinner consists of 17-22 courses (with seasonality taken into consideration) for $275 per person.
Where most omakase dining experiences put their emphasis into the sushi portion of the meal, Chef Igarashi's kaiseki training ensures even the starting produce-forward dishes have as much attention and flavour.
A tomato jelly starts the night, featuring filtered tomato juice and tomato powder. Honouring the fruitiness of the tomato - something that's often masked in heavy, savoury flavours - the unique dish is sweet and bright.
Following this successful start are dishes such as the Shiromi, a thinly sliced white fish dressed with Chef's own soy sauce and truffle blend.
High quality eats continue the night atop eye-catching plate ware, including yuzukoshu (a fermented Japanese condiment made with the yuzu rind, green chili and salt) on sea bream, five year old abalone, and sweet Japanese uni.
Come the eight sushi courses, Chef Igarashi encourages diners don't hesitate when eating, and snatch it up quickly off the plate. Any delay in time can alter the necessary temperate and structure the sushi sits at.
Among these courses, three feature bluefin tuna belly in uniquely differing grades of fattiness.
Chef's personal favourite course is the Anago - eel from the sea, rather than a river, where the more common unagi is found.
It's no wonder it's his favourite - after diligently removing their thin and brittle bones, the warm and soft eel is coated in an ango reduction, lending a deep caramel flavour.
Dessert is no exception to the artistry. White sesame ice cream topped with plum compote and a sesame cookie, featuring a single hardened whisky leaf delicately attached.
Sushi Yugen's prices may seem steep, but with waitresses doning kimonos that take 30 minutes to put on and rare Japanese sakes on the menu, it's likely you'll leave with a priceless appreciation.
Sushi Yugen is located at 150 York St.
Fareen Karim