Superpoint Express
Superpoint Express is the Parkdale takeout counterpoint to their lower Ossington sit-down restaurant. It took over what used to be Roti Lady on Dunn near Lansdowne and Queen.
Though the Ossington location also does takeout slices and delivery in addition to their dine-in Italian fusion fare served with fine wines and craft beers, the demand for delivery became too much for one location.
Though the tiny spot only seats six at stools, they still incorporate their signature red lighting that feels part heat lamp, part Stranger Things.
I start off with a caesar salad ($12) because I’m too intrigued by the hickory stick topping. When I taste it I’m actually shocked no one’s ever thought of this before, the smoky crunch combining perfectly with crisp romaine, garlicky dressing, and a zesty hit of fresh lemon.
The shrooms pizza is topped with a mushroom cream, creminis, mozzarella, padano, nutty sesame seeds and fresh arugula. A white pie with ricotta, onion and Calabrian chili and an anchovy pie are exclusive to this location.
All slices are five bucks and most are $18 for a small pie and $29 for a large, except for cheese ($15/$25) and pepperoni ($16/$28), some Superpoint classics they carry here as well. The pep is just red sauce, mozz, padano, pepperoni and oregano, but it’s spicy and meaty.
They’re also serving up these slices with a range of dipping sauces that outdo Pizza Pizza in a heartbeat: caesar, ranch, and marinara ($2). The caesar is as good on a crust as it is on the salad, and past this visit they’ll have a hot sauce and a BBQ sauce developed by Smoke Signals.
Something else unique to Superpoint Express are hero sandwiches, meatball ($14), eggplant ($12) and a cold cut combo ($12) that most definitely puts Subway to shame. A plethora of cured meats are topped with provolone, sundried tomato, mayo, and thinly sliced onion and iceberg that drips with oil and vinegar.
In another move that pays homage to classic Italian takeout, they’re also doing olives (small $4, large $6) dressed simply but powerfully with oregano, onion and spicy jalapeno.
It’s an interesting space despite its small size, stock items and some prep equipment and even what chef and owner Jonny Poon calls his “office” above the cooking and serving area in a kind of loft. This is not your average takeout joint.
Jesse Milns