Silent H
Silent H is redefining Mexican cuisine in Toronto. From the same team behind Regulars Bar (that closed in 2022 for a new subway station on King St.), this new spot takes an elevated approach to familiar foods.
As you walk up an arched rose gold staircase, you'll be welcomed by tunes from a live DJ in the main dining hall. It's a lively space that's perfect for an evening out on the town.
Pink velvet booths seat groups around green marble tables and an exposed brick bar lines an entire wall, offering a more intimate setting that's ideal for dates.
The team serendipitously found Executive Chef Álvarez Saucedo, who moved his whole life to Toronto from Monterrey, Mexico just six months ago to be a part of the project.
"I want my family to come alive in this restaurant," explained Saucedo. He told me that the entire menu is connected to his hometown and his family members in some way.
"Food and family is the most important thing in Mexican culture."
You won't find any "quick Mexican food" here, but instead an experience that's worth savouring and indulging in.
To start, we tried the Marquesita ($23), one of the two salads available. Saucedo tells me he didn't grow up eating a lot of salads and was daunted when faced with developing one.
He decided to pull from the namesake dessert, a popular ice cream cheese dessert found in the markets in Mexico.
A kale, spinach, and red oak salad is topped with a dill-honey vinaigrette, pretzels, and cashews. Instead of cheese, there's a goat cheese gelato and waffle sheet to break and toss into your greens to make an extra sweet salad.
All the plates are meant to be shared and come with a generous amount of food — ideal for groups.
The Tacos Olvidados de Camarón ($26) means "forgotten shrimp tacos" and was a result of a happy accident when Saucedo left his favourite shrimp tacos on the grill too long.
Served on a little grill of mesquite wood chips and rosemary, it recreates the smokey experience that gave birth to the dish. Dip the crunchy tacos (filled with black tiger shrimp, bacon, and mozzarella cheese) into house-made shrimp consomé.
A spin on the well-known Mexican street corn, Esquites Sin Elote, translates to "corn without the corn." Here you'll find a grilled veggies like carrots, asparagus, and beets coated in a delicious lime-rosemary dressing, with tajin mayo and queso cotija. This is a must order.
Flautas de Carnitas ($27) is Saucedo's grandmother's recipe, which was only given to him by his aunt after her passing. Fried and rolled carnita tacos sit on queso fresco, before getting topped with romaine, avocado sauce, sour cream. Make sure to grab a pickled onion to cut through the heavy sauce.
My personal favourite was the Aguachile Verde ($34) made true to what you'll find on the streets of Mazatlan, Mexico. It is super-fresh and tart, and the avocado slices offer a great creaminess to the seafood.
Scallops, tilapia, shrimp, cucumber, and red onion slices lie waiting to be scooped up by grilled tostadas.
The Tostadas de Atún ($29) have been a fan favourite since opening. Chipotle-dressed tuna comes in piles on charred corn tostadas with tajin mayo and guacamole.
For soft tacos, there's the Cachetadas de Rib Eye ($37), which are Saucedo's favourite. Cheese-crusted rib eye slices come with avocado, grilled onion, and chives on corn tortillas.
You can add bone marrow for $14 or pair it with a shot of mezcal to cut through the richness.
Espadas de Rib Eye ($44), 9 oz. of grilled tender rib skewers that you pull off the stick, are meant to be fun and engaging, letting you build your own bite by grabbing some meat and guac.
Possibly one of the best sticky toffee puddings in the city is this special El Favorito de Papá ($24). It was his father's favourite dish that his sister made him before he passed from a battle with cancer.
Story aside, it is truly an excellent dessert. It uses pear bread and walnut crumble in a deep pool of salted caramel sauce, offering the perfect amount of sweetness, texture and warmth.
You can scoop up some vanilla gelato to get a bit of cold and hot, but I personally think it's perfect alone.
On the drinks side, Spencer Gooderham (of famed Gooderham descent) has crafted a cocktail menu worth talking about. Every drink is dedicated to a different region in Mexico, with hopes to highlight a new Indigenous group that people in Toronto may not be familiar with.
Ensenada Dreams ($32) is a take on a spicy margarita and draws inspiration from the Baja Peninsula. The region is the key area for wine, and, appropriately, there's a layer of petite sirah on top that creates a pretty sunset gradient.
Served with a cloud of cotton candy, it keeps the drink fun and drinkable even when the alcohol settles. Take a bite of candy before you sip to balance the spicy with sweet.
Oaxaca's Order ($32) is an homage to the Pacific Coast, the heart of tequila and mezcal production. It's a mezcal-based Old Fashioned, with coconut-washed Patron Añejo and garnished with an in-house mole.
Presented on a grill of flammable steel wool, watch the embers glow and enjoy the added aroma of the smoke.
Gunning for best espresso martini in the city is Coatepec Martini ($32). Coatepec is located in the Southern Gulf, the coffee capital of Mexico. Añejo tequila is paired with fresh pulled espresso, cacao, Licor 43 and Amaro Lucano.
Topped with a custom-made chili sea salt chocolate bark from Soma next door, the drink is velvety-smooth and very, very good.
Finally, if you're feeling adventurous, try the Deserted in Durango ($32) that'll transport you to Northern Mexico where there's nothing but sand, cacti, and the occasional scorpion.
This smokey and spicy mezcal and Ancho Reyes drink is paired with house-made pineapple tepache, before getting topped with the off-cut of pineapple from that process as a garnish.
On the side, there's mezcal-soaked scorpion served on a bed of edible sand. Eat the arachnid first, then wash it down with the pineapple drink.
Housed in a massive 8,000-square-foot space, there's also an outdoor patio on the west side.
Downstairs is Aitch, a private members only space behind a hidden door. Available for private bookings only, it's a sleek and intimate space perfect for events.
Silent H is located at 461 King St W. and is open 7 days a week
Fareen Karim