Pizzeria no. 900 Toronto
Pizzeria no. 900, recognized for its classic and creative Neapolitan-style pizzas, has officially expanded to Toronto.
With 30 locations across Quebec and one in Lyon, France, Pizzeria no. 900 has established itself as a rcognizable name in the pizza scene. The fast-casual franchise holds the international distinction, AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana), signalling mastery of the Neapolitan tradition and craft.
Each pizza is baked at 900 degrees Fahrenheit for just 90 seconds, a process reflected in the name.
I spoke with Chef and Partner Fiodar Huminski, who heads research and development for the franchise, about the characteristics that make up an authentic Neapolitan pizza.
"There's several components," he shared. "Number one is the flour you have to use. It's called double zero flour, which means there's a lot of protein and enrichment of gluten in it. Next is the hydration. True Neapolitan pizza is between 60 to 65 per cent water to flour."
Another key factor is the ingredients - San Marzano tomatoes and high-quality Italian olive oil are essential. But, what is most vital is the know-how of the pizzaiolo. Similar to a sushi chef or a saucier, a pizzaiolo undergoes specialized training to master their respective discipline.
Chef Huminski has years of experience working for some big-name chefs in Montreal, and he opened and operated a restaurant of his own in 2014. He now works with Mirko D'Agata, executive chef of no. 900 pizzerias. The two collaborate on sourcing ingredients, finding new products, and developing seasonal menu items that infuse European flavours.
To kick off the evening, we began at the bar, enjoying a few of their signature cocktails and mocktails.
The bar features a white marble counter with high-top seating for roughly five people. It's modern and sleek with a decent view of the entire space.
The Basil Sour ($13) with gin, apple juice, basil syrup, and frothy egg whites is fragrant, delicate, and refreshing. Sweet and citrusy you'll easily taste the notes of basil.
The Margarita ($13) is a fairly standard rendition made with tequila, orange liqueur, lemon, and an in-house honey syrup.
Equally as delicious are the mocktails. The Noa Mule ($12) is made with a non-alcoholic Italian amaro, ginger beer, and lime. Delightfully fizzy, it has a robust, spicy and aromatic flavour.
The spot can seat 55 diners inside and an additional 20 on the front outdoor patio. The Beaches restaurant is designed similarly to the other franchise locations with industrial finishes.
"The building itself was built in 1908," shared owner Luke Sauvé with blogTO. "So we had to take that into consideration - the walls, the flooring, everything was a little misshapen. We designed this space by adapting to the building rather than having the building adapt to the space."
One of my favourite elements was the skylight at the entrance. There was so much natural light flooding the wooden tables.
Towards the back, the vibe shifts, and it's much more cozy, intimate, and warm. Mismatched plates hang on the subway tile walls, a feature that reminds me of a Nonna's kitchen.
Along the way, you'll pass the expansive enclosed glass wine cellar and the open-concept kitchen, where the pizza oven is proudly displayed. Watch the pizzaiolos hard at work as pizzas nearly fly out of the kitchen.
Another fun addition is the specialty Italian grocery items available. Get some taralli and a jar of Sicilian olives for the perfect aperitivo.
For appetizers, the Arancini (2 for $11) are similar to the ones I had during a recent trip to Rome. One fried rice ball was stuffed with a traditional beef and pork tomato ragu. And the other featured spinach and ricotta cheese, which was my favourite of the two.
There are also various cheese and charcuterie options on the menu, perfect for sharing.
The Stracciata Di Burrata ($11) comes with caramelized red grapes, parsley oil, crushed taralli, basil, and some seriously tasty crispy speck. Served with warm bread, I loved the combination of all the ingredients with the creamy, melt-in-your-mouth cheese.
And, of course, you could never go wrong with the Burrata ($26). Accompanied by colourful cherry tomatoes, homemade pesto, and more fresh bread, it delivers what you'd expect from a classic burrata dish. I did, however, find myself preferring the Stracciata, which is available for less than half the price.
For pizza, both Sauvé and Huminski agree a traditional Margherita ($16) is the best place to start, especially if it's your first time dining. This simple pizza lets the ingredients shine.
The tomato sauce, fior di latte, basil, and extra virgin olive oil all work together harmoniously, creating, in my opinion, the perfect bite. The crust was light, crispy around the edges, and soft yet chewy.
The Butcher's Choice ($21) is great if you're looking for a red pie with a little more flair. It features smoky pancetta, spicy andouille sausage made in-house, Calabrian 'nduja, ventricina, thinly sliced onion, fior di latte, pecorino romano, and black pepper.
The final pizza, the Smoked Meat ($20), was one of the most intriguing in terms of concept. This white-style pizza was crafted to mimic the taste of a classic Montreal smoked meat sandwich.
And that certainly comes through with the smoked beef, fontina cheese, and caramelized onion. Perhaps something more well-suited for lunch, I'll give it points for creativity.
The neighbourhood pizzeria opened on August 23rd, 2024 and is already receiving a warm welcome.
"It's been busy. Right from the start, the community in the Beaches has been phenomenal. They've been so welcoming, so engaging, and so supportive," said Sauvé.
Pizzeria no. 900 is located at 1987 Queen St East.
Fareen Karim
