The Old York Tavern has re-opened under new ownership, and with a refreshing new concept and menu. After closing earlier in early 2023, many neighbourhood regulars were left to wonder about the fate of their favourite pub.

In a weird twist of fate, co-owner Katie Bradley was approached by a friend of a friend of predecessor Fabi Letarte-Tessier about taking over the shop, thus continuing the legacy of the 53-year-old institution being historically run by women.

Bradley tapped long-time collaborators David Le and Saad Ali, whose past projects together include popular pop-up series Revel Foods, plus time at Côte de Boeuf and Milou.

"We fell in love with the neighbourhood, and there's never really a good time to open a restaurant so we just decided to jump in and do it," explained Bradley.

One of the biggest shifts was moving the concept away from a pub towards a French bistro while keeping it grounded in the familiarity one may expect of a tavern in New York.

The menu focuses on simple, seasonal small plates that use quality ingredients. Food here is unpretentious, choosing to champion reliable execution and comforting menu choices instead.

The main dining room is triangular, with checkered linoleum tiles that give a fun dimension to the space. Minor renovations include the walls being painted a brighter cream, blue detailing, upholstery courtesy of friends and family, and the return of the original sign out front.

Bradley tells blogTO it was important to create a space they hope becomes a place that's a welcoming reprieve for locals.

"We'd love to be a neighbourhood meeting place where you can just grab a pint, have a dinner, or an after work snack."

A dozen East Coast Oysters ($42) come on cool stones. They're a meaty medium size, served alongside a red wine mignonette.

Onion Dip ($16), a French dip that uses yogurt, scallion, and chive, comes with pomme gaufrettes waffle chips. The dip's infused with a shallot oil that adds a sweet aromatic touch. This would pair well with an ice cold beer.

Salt & Pepper Calamari ($23) is based off a recipe that Le's mother created. A gluten-free rice flour batter coats the squid and the final presentation has shallot, ginger, and Sichuan pepper on top that's been deglazed with lemon juice.

The Gem Lettuce Salad ($17) is the only salad on the menu and it's no-frills. Pistachio, caper-lemon vinaigrette, and grated ricotta can be easily scooped up by bite-size baby romaine leaves.
Gnudi ($26) is a naked ravioli featuring big spinach ricotta dumplings and blanched peas that's sautéed in a brown butter and topped with parm. This dish feels like a soft warm hug. Expect this to be tweaked seasonally based on what's in season.

If you're into the classics, try the Tavern Burger ($26). A dry age chuck brisket patty is chargrilled and covered in melted cheddar, onion aioli, shaved onions, and pickles in a sesame potato bun. Dip the accompanying crisp frites in ketchup or mayo.

It's an item the team is especially proud of, and understandably so. 
There's a fair selection of beers and a small number of wines available by the glass or bottle.

If you're in the mood for a cocktail, the options here obviously lean French and are excellently executed. 

The York Caesar ($16) is muddier than your usual, using more Worcestershire sauce which gives the drink a higher salt profile. A peperoncino and olive garnish keep this on the spicier side.

Negroni ($14) is available on tap courtesy of Dillon's, which is Bradley's personal favourite.

The Strawberry Rhubarb Spritz ($16) is a mix of sparkling wine and house-made fruit syrup. It's sweet and reminded me of a Jolly Rancher in the best way. 

The Tavern Martini ($17) is made as a Vesper — gin, vermouth, Tio Pepe, Lillet, and orange bitters come together for a strong sip.

Try the Panaché ($16) if you want a true French bistro experience. A mix of Stella Artois beer and house-made lemonade blend to create an easy and light drink.

Finish your meal with the only dessert on the menu, the Crème Caramel ($10), a soft pudding sitting in a pool of clear caramel sauce. 

The walkout covered patio is dog-friendly and popular with regulars.

On weekends, there's also a brunch menu featuring plates like Lobster Benedict and French Toast.

Find Old York Tavern at the corner of 167 Niagara St. for brunch, lunch and dinner.