Miss Aida
Miss Aida is a Levantine restaurant in Roncesvalles from the owners of J's Steak Frites offering simple and accessible fare that's rooted in personal memory.
It's named after co-owner Jad Sfeir's mother, whose wedding day photo hangs on the back wall of the restaurant. Sfeir hopes to channel his mother's warmth and love of feeding people by passing on her recipes here.
The space is a sleek black and white, featuring exposed brick and arched mirrors that makes it perfect for dates or family meals.
Sfeir was born in Lebanon and always dreamed of opening a restaurant that paid homage to the foods he grew up eating. It was a challenge finding the right collaborators that understood his vision and execution of dishes until he found Executive Chef Mohamad Hazbawi.
The Halloumi ($26) was the first dish the two of them developed and Sfeir tells me it had to be presented in the exact way it's served now.
The thick block of cheese is baked, topped with fig jam and honey, then sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and house za'atar.
There are no appetizers on the menu, as all the dishes here are meant to be shared.
"The food here are all very classic dishes but presented how I'd like to eat it," explained Sfeir.The cauliflower ($18) is blanched and quickly deep-fried, before being plated on a bed of creamy tarator sauce.The whole sea bass ($40) was both my and Chef Hazbawi's favourite. Spinach is sandwiched between two fillets and it's topped with roasted almonds for a nice crunch that's juxtaposed with the soft fish.
The char on this is lovely and the smokiness works well with the harissa sauce that's served on the side. The falafel ($14) are a good vegan option, served with tarator sauce, diced tomatoes and parsley, plus a side of pita.Another standout was the kafta ($28). A mix of lamb and beef that's charred on a grill, it makes for a soft, tender bite with a good balance of gameyness and fatiness.For drinks, check out Stardust ($16) which was made to remind you of a Starburst candy. Hibiscus simple syrup, lemon, lime, and tequila get topped with glitter to mimic a twilight sky. Arak Attack ($19) places Arak, the national drink of Lebanon, front and centre. The base is bourbon and Aperol and you can pour in as much milky Arak as you'd like. I'd caution a light hand as it's quite a strong liquor. Mellow ($17) was an easy sip, with triple sec and earl grey simple syrup giving it smoothness. Bergamot lends the drink a pretty yellow colour. Co-owner Tara Tang is also the Head Pastry Chef and has created two modern takes on well-known desserts.
The baklava is deconstructed with a filo pastry shell holding clotted ashta cream, sponge cake, and pistachio ice cream that's a curious, spongey, tofu-like texture.
The knafeh is traditionally a breakfast item in Lebanon but Tang has worked it to be a sweet treat. Akkawi and mozzarella are baked in semolina and topped with pistachio, with orange blossom water, and simple syrup lending it a super fragrant sweet note that's perfect for ending your meal.
Miss Aida is located at 413 Roncesvalles Ave.
Fareen Karim