MIMI Chinese is a moody restaurant cooking its way across the spectrum of Chinese cuisine. 

This dimly-lit spinoff of Sunny's Chinese is the upscale iteration of its more casual pop-up counterpart.Amplifying the diversity of Chinese food is still the M.O. here, carried over from the original Sunny's concept by exec chef David Schwartz, sous chef Braden Chong and Keith Siu.

It's a dramatic setting for stir-fried rice rolls. The window-less space, formerly home to Mistura, is now a dining room with blood red booths, water lily wallpaper and servers in bow-ties: If Dracula was from Kowloon he might dine here.Given the vastness of this particular culinary landscape, the menu at MIMI specifies the province of origin of each dish for FYI purposes. 

Right now the selection includes some Cantonese banquet favourites like stir-fried gai lan ($12) with mustard greens, fermented in-house, and cheung fun ($18) made with three different types of soy sauce. There's an option to add white truffle. 

A small dish of pumpkin and snow melon with Shaoxing broth and ginger is a nice touch ($10), meant to act as a bit of a booster between courses.

Buttery smooth scallops ($24) are brined just-cooked with a splash of hot oil. 

The Hunan chili sea bass ($59) should be the centrepiece of your table's Lazy Susan. The combo of chilies, fermented for a month, and sweet Fujian wine make this dish a flavour bomb. 

The theatrical highlight of the evening will be the four-foot-long, nearly two-inch-wide Shaanxi-style belt noodle ($26).

MIMI's take on northern Chinese-style Biang Biang noodles is one long, springy noodle served with Sichuan chili oil and a pair of scissors.

You can clip the noodle yourself, if you're above superstition, or ask a server to do it for you.

Supreme Fried Rice ($28) has shredded dried scallop, grated salted duck egg and lap cheong.

For extra decadence, add $10 for 20 grams of salty salmon roe. Missing from the table is MIMI's three-day char siu, cooked in Mistura’s leftover stone oven.

Dessert includes a steamed cake with salted egg yolk custard in the middle, a twist on spongy ma lai go, served with a sweet fermented rice cream. 

There's a list of cocktails and plenty of wine. The MIMI Manhattan ($16) uses Cantonese rice wine. Bet It All On Red ($19) is basically an old-fashioned but with red bean and a ginseng bitter made in-house. 

The citrusy, lychee-infused Jungle Panda, made with rum, elderflower, Campari and baiju, comes in a Tiki-style cup from Toronto's Cocktail Emporium— a kitschy lean-in to the theme.