Lyla is a cozy neighbourhood spot where the menu cavorts from one location to the next along the Mediterranean coast.

Run by a team dedicated to getting things right, it's a contemporary restaurant with easy-drinking cocktails and a slew of tasty dishes inspired by some of the world’s sunniest spots.

Opened in June, Lyla has already breathed new life into a somewhat barren stretch of Sudbury Street. Despite its proximity to West Queen West and its wealth of restaurants, Sudbury feels positively deprived of places to pop in for a drink, a snack or an entire meal.

"There's a high density of restaurants around here but I wouldn't say there's anything similar to this type of concept or this type of feel," explains Daniel van Welie, who together with Amen Habtemariam, owns Lyla.

Long-time friends, the duo has "worked in the industry together at various restaurants. Most recently at Cano," he adds.

Despite being used to an uptown crowd, the team "fell in love with this location," says van Welie. "We just want to serve great food and give an amazing experience to each guest. We want to bring something new to this neck of the woods."

That novelty arrives in the form of shared Mediterranean plates inspired by Italy, Spain, Greece, and more. "We touch on a few different countries and our menus will be changing four times a year," explains van Welie.

Together with executive chef Michael Medeiros, the team "spent months making sure that every dish had the look and the flavour components that we wanted," adds Habtemariam.

Sizeable for the neighbourhood, the restaurant is minimalist and modern, with statement lighting and luxe fabrics lending every inch a refined feel. Seated at the bar, in the lounge, dining room or on the patio, one could spend a happy hour nursing one of the team's cocktails.

Riffs on classics, each feels familiar with enough newness to feel fun. With Empress Gin, lychee juice, a generous dose of passion fruit and prosecco, the signature Lyla Amore ($19) is a fruity , colourful spritz ideal for warm weather.

Another must-sip when temps rise, Red Allure ($19) is like a gussied up Paloma, made with fig-infused vodka, in place of tequila, orange liqueur, plenty of fresh juice and soda.

Mightier than it looks, the Sicilian Spice ($20) is an Old Fashioned given a shot of spiced rum and a smoky cinnamon garnish.

Should you begin dinner with a caviar bump? The option is there, though it's not necessary. Thanks to chef's Michelin training and fondness for embellishments, plus the vast source material he draws from, Lyla's menu is entertaining even without lavish add-ons.

Instead, begin with Salmon Crudo ($27) and Crispy Cauliflower ($23). Cured in kombu, salmon is tender and punchy, its fattiness offset by pickled pepperoncini and gochujang-charged Cara Cara orange sauce.

A satisfying side, the team's cauliflower dish does double duty as an appetizer that feels rich thanks to its lush hummus bed and confit garlic dressing.

Made in-house (though other pastas are sourced from Woodbridge's Grano Duro Pasta) Tortelli al Tartufo ($33) feeds the city's insatiable need for fungi.

Plump bundles of ricotta and black truffle, they're tossed with oyster mushrooms and mushroom butter sauce before being capped with pecorino and a fine layer of fresh shaved truffles.

Served with port jus you'll want to drink directly from its miniature pitcher, chef's 12 oz, grass-fed Striploin ($59) is also served with bone marrow and an abundance of roasted garlic cloves.

Generally somewhat ho-hum, Heirloom Carrots ($15) are heaped over spiced yogurt and zippy salsa verde for an upgrade to the straightforward side.

From a team trained in fine dining, Lyla is elegant without feeling stuffy. Service is polished and dishes are plated beautifully.

The room is stylish and the wine list is vast. Still, explains Medeiros, "we wanted to bring an elevated experience to an experience where you don't feel like you need a suit and tie to eat."

Adds Habtemariam, "we want to be the space where you can come and have a quick drink, sit in the lounge. You don't have to sit down and have a three-course meal."

Lyla is located at 60 Sudbury Street.