Linny's
Linny's is the newest venture from Big Hug Hospitality, the restaurant group behind Toronto's highly acclaimed MIMI Chinese and Sunnys Chinese.
Blending the charm of an old-school deli with the elegance of a mid-century steakhouse, the menu showcases freshly baked challah, hand-cut pastrami, savoury chicken liver toast, expertly broiled steaks, and classics like Caesar salad.
Every dish is meticulously crafted, focusing on high-quality ingredients and simple preparation.
David Schwartz, the Culinary and Creative Director, named Linny's in honour of his mother, Linda. The pages of her recipe book are framed all around the space, adorned with her handwriting.
While MIMI Chinese and Sunnys Chinese have become renowned for their exploration of regional Chinese cuisine, Linny's offers a heartfelt homage to Schwartz's family heritage and Eastern European roots.
The restaurant has been a way for him to rediscover and reconnect with childhood dishes in a new and exciting way.
"I've always been equally obsessed with deli culture and steakhouse culture," shared Schwartz.
The drinks have a playful connection to the menu, with bar manager Blaise Couturier delivering many unique flavour combinations.
The B.M.P ($18) is made with aquavit (a spirit distilled with potatoes), beetroot juice, raspberry syrup, rose syrup, and fresh citrus. It’s garnished with a spring of fresh dill.
My favourite is a non-alcoholic drink called the Dilly Dally ($10). Crafted with green apple, cucumber, and dill pickle brine, it's refreshing, zingy, and zesty. It pairs beautifully with a number of the dishes on the menu.
To eat, the Linny's Cut Pastrami ($48) is a must-order. This thick hand-cut pastrami is given the same love and care as a steak. Schwartz, who's cooked pastrami recreationally for over eight years, knew just how good the sandwich deli could be.
From brine to finish, the pastrami takes a week to make. The restaurant even boasts a special room designed for the 15-hour smoking process. The pastrami is served with grainy Dijon mustard and house half-sour sliced pickles.
Meant to be eaten with a fork and knife, the pastrami cuts like butter and is deeply savoury, salty, and smoky. It's easily one of the best bites in the city.
The Kasha and Bows ($24) is a take on a classic Eastern European deli dish. It features handmade bow-tie pasta with toasted buckwheat, chicken butter, and sweet Ontario corn.
The Chicken Liver Toast ($18) is another riff on a Polish staple, chopped liver. Using freshly grilled sourdough from their Ossington neighbour Dear Grain, the toast is smothered with a rich chicken liver pate and topped with cured egg yolk and fried onions.
Recognized for its robust beef program, Linny's is committed to partnering with Ontario farms and co-ops committed to sustainable farming practices and high-quality meats.
Schwartz and Head Chef Ethan Rogers are extremely knowledgeable when it comes to understanding all the different cuts. From dry aging to wet, grass fed to grain, all the cuts differ in taste and texture.
"There was a lot of effort put into sourcing our beef, and all of our meat comes from specific places. Ethan and I went to a bunch of farms to see their facilities, what they were like and how they do things," said Schwartz.
All the steaks, including the $198 bone-in 30 oz Porterhouse, are seared in Linny's 1800ºF degree overfired broiler. It's an old-school method of cooking that results in an intense flavour.
And Linny's is focused on more than just prime cuts.
"A lot of the stuff on the menu here is born out of necessity. And what you had available, right?" Schwartz explained. "We have lamb neck and tripe schnitzel. Those aren't prime cuts, and they're not things that people often think about cooking at home. They're a lot more work. But when you put the work into them, the product is amazing."
The Roasted Lamb Neck ($59) from Beverly Creek Farms is outstanding. Slow-roasted for several hours in a velvety brown sauce, the meat becomes fall-off-the-bone tender. Served with two varieties of in-house horseradish and turnips, this dish balances depth and brightness in every bite.
For sides, look at ordering the vegetables. The Broccoli ($14) is done with mustard greens, smoked white fish, capers, and lemon. Bright and crunchy, it's the perfect complement to any rich meat dish.
The timeless space was designed by Jack Lipson, Director of Toronto-based IPSO Studio.
Like Bug Hug Hospitality's other establishments, Linny's intentionally has no windows, inviting you to immerse yourself fully in the dining experience and lose track of time.
Every detail has been thoughtfully considered: corduroy booths, a Venetian plaster ceiling, mirrored pillars, and Italian burl wood walls come together to create a warm, mid-century modern and art-deco feel.
Linny's is located at 176 Ossington Avenue.
Fareen Karim
