Koukla is a meze bar across the street from sibling Greek restaurant Mamakas.

A menu consisting of small sharing plates and a raw seafood bar is complemented by natural wines and Greece-inspired cocktails.

The space formerly home to Omaw has been transformed with a lighter colour palette and new windows along the side-street-facing wall. 

Oysters are a dollar from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. from a raw bar, or $18 for a streidia (oysters) plate of a half dozen east and west coast oysters. There's also a $55 Piato Thalassinon of local and imported fresh seafood.

Koulouri ($4), a bagel-like kind of bread covered in sesame seeds, and an addictive honey butter sprinkled with bee pollen are both made at other sibling spot Agora.

A Salata ($9) is essentially a fennel salad with local, seasonal radish and blood orange, dressed simply with olive oil and vinegar.

Calamari comes in a nice snack-sized serving for $9, coated using fava flour for lightness and crunch, and served with a wedge of lemon for a hit of freshness and acidity.

Feta ($10) is a standout, wrapped in phyllo and topped with sesame, honey, and pomegranate seeds that take this sweet and savoury classic up a notch.

Mackerel ($13) offers a glimmer of what one can expect from seafood offerings, salt cured, pickled and preserved in olive oil. It's paired with a kind of Florina pepper paste prepared with vinegar and herbs that really elevates the pungent fish.

Dolmades ($12) swap out the usual vine leaves for organic Swiss chard that's much less bitter and tough. They're stuffed with rice, pine nuts, dill, mint and raisins soaked in ouzo, and plated in a pool of avgolemono sauce that's a play on a Greek soup.

The fish sandwich ($14) is a hit, fried trout and Agora's taramosalata sandwiched between slices of toasted white bread with the crusts cut off.

Tigania ($15) plates crispy little chunks of pork belly and potato in mildly flavoured mustard sauce, their take on a traditional Greek dish.

Don't miss cheesecake ($10) to finish, incredibly rich with a shiny blackened top, made with Greek yogurt and paired with a juicy, tart sour cherry compote.

$14 cocktails include the Tzatziki, which lives up to its name by adding cucumber cordial and herbs to gin for a flavour that truly gives off the essence of the iconic dip.

An extensive Greek wine program focuses on organic, biodynamic and natural small producers. Pretty much everything is available by the glass and wine is half price on Sundays, making it easy to try rarer finds.

Rope and a flecked bar add texture to the warm interior livened up by plants.