J's Apron
J’s Apron serves fusion breakfast, brunch and lunch that mashes up bennies, sushi, and sandwiches, incorporating Japanese, Italian, and American influences.
It’s co-owned by husband and wife team Inseok Jang (who takes the lead on cooking) and Hyunseung Son, otherwise known as James and Jenna: hence, J’s Apron.
They completely overhauled the space that used to be home to a fast food joint themselves, mosaic tiling overhanging cozy wooden tables and bench seating along one wall leading to a pastry case in front of an open kitchen area where final touches are added.
J’s Osaka ($16) is a sushi plate with an Italian twist. Shrimp nigiri is topped with wasabi pesto mayo that’s torched, then grated asiago and lime zest are piled on.
The flavour combination is unexpected but makes sense with concepts of grilled shrimp and pasta, the fish, cheese and citrus oddly harmonizing.
You can also opt for a salmon version with spicy soy mayo (all sauces are scratch-made in house), and your choice of side green salad or addictive truffle chips with more grated cheese.
A Hawaiian pulled pork benny ($14) is served like all bennies on a white bun topped with arugula, pork, perfectly poached eggs and silky hollandaise, and pickled onion.
The pork’s been marinated for a day, and soaked in a Hawaiian-style pineapple sauce. Smoked salmon, parma ham, and chicken bennies are also on the menu, and everything’s made here except the bread.
A chicken sandwich ($14) comes topped with avocado, bacon, baby spinach, caramelized onion and a whack of Asian sauce made with soy and some sesame oil.
The chicken’s marinated with sauce, rosemary and thyme overnight, cooked sous vide and grilled.
Crumbly, sweet hazelnut cake ($9) is served with an airy zabaione sauce and chopped hazelnuts.
Classic espresso-based drinks like lattes ($3.95), espresso con panna and espresso macchiato ($3.50) round out the Italian feel.
Every coffee is a double shot, made using a La Marzocco machine.
Tea comes with its own individual pot of water, and flavours like mango green tea are available.
Jang was a chef in the States and has previously worked for Oliver & Bonacini restaurants, which explains the passion for detail and technique present at this simple brunch spot that’s more than meets the eye.
Jesse Milns