The Joneses serves up all the colour, kitsch, and comfort-food favourites that Toronto craves. Flaunting a mid-century modern look, this spot is for anyone with a taste for stylish surroundings paired with approachable American fare.

One of Oliver & Bonacini Hospitality's latest projects, The Joneses is comfortable and sleek and feels like "your wealthy uncle's living room, circa 1969," says O&B district executive chef Andrew Piccinin.

With the means to match his design dreams, this fictional uncle leaned on the team at Solid Design Creative to bring each of his sprawling abode's 132 seats to life.

Each area — from the bright bar to the lounge where Don Draper himself might settle in for a bracing Old Fashioned and a Lucky Strike — features a riot of colour, geometric patterns and vintage décor that hearkens back to another time.

Overall, the effect is casual and chic without a shred of pretension. This uncle may be wealthy, but he's no stick in the mud. He's as happy for you to pop by for a beer and a bite on your way to a game as he is for you to linger over oysters in your finery. Instead of keeping up with the Joneses, here you're invited to bask in the comforts that define their realm.

Surrender to the vibe with a cocktail from a menu divided into House signatures, Throwbacks and American Classics. Fruity and light, the Passion Pit ($17) is a thirst-quenching blend of Dillon's Selby Pineapple Honey Gin, mezcal, passion fruit and lemon.

With Tanqueray Gin, Bianco Vermouth, lemon, raspberry syrup and cloudlike frothed egg white, the Clover Club ($18) is a sophisticated bevvy with a backstory involving a prestigious men's club and a look that's as ladylike as they come.

Designed to "hit a certain nostalgia button," according to Piccinin, food at The Joneses adheres to an overarching theme of "classic Americana." The goal, he adds, was to offer "quintessential versions of things," and to include "enough retro notes to fit in with the vibe while making it over-the-top delicious as much as we could."

Beyond that, The Joneses boasts a menu that Piccinin hopes will "cast a wide net," in terms of its clientele. From a Foie Gras PB&J ($35) to Shaved Prime Rib pressed sushi ($22) and an All-Dressed Smash Burger served with crinkle-cut, beef fat fries ($29), offerings hop from elegant to everyday, pricey to approachable, with temptations at every turn.

A starter that perfumes the room, then envelops diners in comfort, Warm Cheese Bread ($9) is a must try. Intertwined with cheddar, parm and roasted garlic butter, it's a savoury cousin to a cinnamon roll that's tender, glistening and as dangerous as it is delicious.

Another flavour-packed appetizer, Big M Beef Tartare ($21) evokes one of America's most iconic fast food inventions. With pickles and onions, a crown of shredded iceberg, toasted sesame bread and a complementary pool of special sauce, the ruse is spot on. The result? Lighter and fresher, this dish is infinitely more enjoyable than its muse.

Pacific king salmon, grilled pineapple, avocado, sticky rice and nori, meanwhile, come together in the Hawaiian Salmon Poke Bowl ($36), a dish with a "Hawaiian, coastal California vibe," according to Piccinin.

A meal that could easily fuel eons of business meetings, it's extravagant in its abundance of quality ingredients, textures and flavours, and has the air of being supremely nourishing without feeling spartan.

The antithesis to spartan, Detroit-style pizzas are amply garnished slabs that efficiently satisfy hunger — and any leanings to be naughty. The Proper Pepperoni ($34) arrives donning a blanket of crisped Ezzo pepperoni, a smattering of pickled jalapeños, roasted garlic and a dash of oregano.

A dish inspired by America's favourite boxed pasta, Mac & Cheese ($29) climbs more than a few rungs up the luxury ladder in the hands of The Joneses' culinary team.

For the velvety sauce, chef eschews the general roux route in favour of sodium citrate and a four-cheese blend. Topped with a Parmesan frico, the dish is savoury, rich and creamy, with a pastel orange colour that's blessedly easy on the eyes.

A cornerstone of the menu, grilled proteins deliver the type of fundamental comfort found at the heart of American cuisine. "The value is in the product on the plate," explains Piccinin, drawing attention to a list that includes USDA prime steaks, a Heritage Double-Bone Pork Chop ($44) and wagyu from Australia ($89).

Licked by flames, a 14oz Rib Eye ($65) reveals a rosy interior beneath its gently cross-hatched crust. Served with diners' sauce of choice (from cognac peppercorn to jalapeño chimichurri) it's timeless and as apt to impress in 2023 as it would have been decades ago.

Few dishes tug on the heart strings quite like desserts, which, at The Joneses, are as whimsical and fun as sweets can aspire to be.

Take, for example, the team's Devil's Chocolate Cake ($14), another dish fashioned after grocery-store greatness. As rich as its namesake is evil, this one is for serious chocolate fiends looking for a good (even great?) time.

A gussied up version of the chaotic concoction you might have built as a kid, The Joneses Sundae Spectacular ($14) layers all of the essentials into one over-the-top creation. 

Gelato? Check. Whipped cream? Check. Chocolate fudge, sprinkles and a cherry on top? Check, check and check! Plus, with a sparkler to add sizzle and the scent of burning candles to the dessert course, there's no better way to celebrate every day of the year.

A recipe that's bounced around the O&B catalogue of restaurants for decades, Oliver's Carrot Cake ($14) is homey, moist and, topped with cream cheese icing and candied walnuts, just sweet enough.

Passed down by company co-founder, Peter Oliver, it flaunts the nostalgia and generational appeal of every classic dish on The Joneses menu.

The Joneses is located at 33 Yonge Street.