Giovanni's is named for the chef owner's son, and pays homage to his love of Italy and family trips spent eating around the country.

The style of cuisine at this restaurant very much so encompasses the many regions of Italy, with a backbone of multi-generational family recipes.

Some of the sleek clubby feel of previous occupant Garrison Creek (also an Italian restaurant) has been stripped away in favour of checkered tablecloths and tomato cans hanging from the ceiling (they go through 12 of them a day).

There's a semi-open kitchen space and a pizza bar where pies are made in front of diners at the back.

Bruschetta pomodoro ($6) tops grilled house sourdough with tomato, olive oil, thinly sliced garlic and basil.

Fritto misto ($17) pairs lots of fried calamari with a few fried shrimp, plus a lemon wedge and bomba cocktail sauce.

Polenta fries ($10) are crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside, served with a strong garlic aioli (they're not shy with the garlic here).

Go for the salumi misti ($25) if you're looking to feed a crowd: a selection of Italian cured meats and cheeses with fruit, honey and mustard.

The fico e prosciutto ($17) is the most sophisticated salad, with arugula topped with melty mozzarella di bufala cradled lovingly by a ring of prosciutto and crowned with a skewer of sweet fresh figs.

The spaghetti n'duja ($17) is one of a robust selection of classic dishes using fresh pastas made in house, sweet and spicy with sausage and a honey tomato sauce.

Orecchiette ($18) marries iconic, hearty sausage and rapini, adding chili, parm and olive oil.

A pappardelle cinghiale ($21) is one of the most indulgent pastas, thin flat noodles enrobed in rich wild boar and San Marzano bolognese.

The puttanesca ($18) has no meat, just tomato sauce, olives, capers, garlic and anchovies.

A Margherita pizza is $14, with an option to add on mozzarella di bufala for $4. It's made in an Italian stone oven and has a sauce of fresh DOP San Marzano tomatoes, basil, oregano, salt, pepper and olive oil. It's not strictly Neapolitan, but it's foldable with a crispy crust and a soft, wet, floppy centre.

A pizza bianca ($17) is more gourmet with a strong combination of gorgonzola, figs and red onion.

A Malfy Spritz ($14) is basically an Italian twist on a French 75 with gin, lemon and prosecco.

Don't miss a pantry section stocked with freshly made Nutella bomba, which you can also order for dessert.

An idyllic patio equipped with shady umbrellas and strung with lights seats 68.