Florette
Florette is an exciting restaurant that strives to create funky food and cocktails. Not tied down to one specific type of cuisine, the menu is a playful combination of flavours.
Housed in a narrow (but long) space on West Queen West, design firm Denizens of Design worked with owner Jerry Zhang to transform the historic property into a stunning barrel-vaulted space covered in floral wallpaper.
Every detail, from the chenille fabric of the bar chairs and spindled legs of the banquette to the lampshades hanging above tables, was thoughtfully planned to evoke the feeling of a living room that's well-lived in.
"We want to transport people to another world when they enter," explains Zhang.
Zhang is an early blogTO reader and tells us it played a huge role in crafting his knowledge of Toronto's food scene 10 years ago. While originally raised in Scarborough, he fell in love with the city after moving here in 2011.
The uncertainty of the pandemic gave him the push to pursue his lifelong dream of opening a restaurant, and he was soon combing Instagram to find like-minded collaborators.
He reached out to Matt Allinson to lead the bar program and Mann Bijlani to head the kitchen through DM's, and a year and half later, Florette was born.
Both the kitchen and bar operate with a goal of sustainability and make efforts to reuse leftover ingredients in another dish or drink. Bijlani recognizes the diversity of the city and tries not to limit the offerings down to one particular culture.
"I want to cook for the people. It's all about simplifying food. We try not to use tweezers in our kitchen," jokes Bijlani, whose team strives to create flavour combinations that are new and unheard of.
The Marinated Mushrooms ($10) pack a surprising punch of flavour, with lemon zest and a house spice adding a new spin to what could be a predictable dish.
The Roasted Cabbage ($17) is a must order. Inspired by Vitello Tonnato, it's covered in a tonnato sauce that balances the char of the roast and topped with capers and rosemary.
A fun spin on a bone marrow dish is their Tex-Mex Bone Marrow ($23) that comes with a side of tortilla chips to scoop up the cheesy, meaty chili inside.
The Manila Clams ($19) was my favourite dish of the night: B.C. Manila clams sit on a spicy bed of 'nduja butter and are topped with fragrant fried curry leaves. The clams are meaty in texture and make sure to scoop a generous amount of sauce for the perfect bite.
The Mojo Salad ($16) is a fresh option for the table, featuring a vibrant mojo verde and lemon vinaigrette mixed into lettuce and gooseberries.
A summer addition to the menu, the Scallop Crudo ($22) is the perfect dish for hot weather. Hokkaido scallops sit in a juicy pool of macerated strawberries and rhubarb, with sprinkles of green strawberries and lemon thyme.
Throw in a plate of asparagus ($15) smothered in green goddess sauce and broccoli crumbs, and you're set for the perfect summer meal.
One of their most popular dishes is the Vodka Rigatoni ($26), a simple yet well-executed pasta. Interestingly, there's a peperonata (which uses bell peppers) in the vodka sauce.
Easily one of the most unique flavours I've tasted recently was the Striploin ($59) in a coffee-parsnip purée. Inspired by Bijlani's trip to France, it was slightly sweet, with the mushroom demi-glace adding to the umami of the purée in the best way possible.
On the bar side, Allinson and the team have created a fun rotating menu that isn't afraid to lean into culinary techniques, such as fermentation and pickling.
The Café Amalfi ($17) is their spin on the Espresso Martini, using blood orange triple sec and chocolate bitters, making it reminiscent of a Terry's orange chocolate.
The Open Sesame ($17) could be seen on almost every table during our visit, and for good reason. Made with a green tea-infused vodka, toasted sesame syrup, and pineapple juice, it was super refreshing and easy to drink.
The Tepache Colada ($17) is all about pineapple and coconut. Using a coconut oil-washed rum and syrup, the pineapple tepache rounded out the drink and made it light, sparkling, and silky.
Horchata ($19) is the newest drink on their menu. Made of ube tequila and Irish whiskey, it's garnished with puffed rice paper and dusted in a pretty purple ube.
Finish off your visit with the Chocolate Tart ($13). Unlike your typical dense tart, this one is aerated and served in a spelt crust with a dallop of caramelized white chocolate mousse.
Zhang hopes to carve out a space in the neighbourhood that people feel comfortable coming to regularly.
"We want to be a permanent part of the community that is always warm and cozy, maybe for a mid-week drink and snack."
Don't miss the mauve exterior at 1168 Queen St. W.
Florette is open for dinners Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. It's closed Monday and Tuesday.
Fareen Karim