Earl's King West packs all the margaritas and martinis, the lettuce wraps and burgers into the swankiest location the chain has ever seen.

A seamless addition to the city's most polarizing strip, the restaurant invites diners to eat, drink, or simply to see and be seen.

When news broke in 2022 that Lee Restaurant was moving from its prime location on King West, diners across the city wondered what could possibly take its place. The answer, everyone soon found out, was the flashiest version yet of one of the country's most popular chains.

Still, assures Sanjay Venu, Vice President of Operations for the company, "At Earls, we are unchaining the chain. Our vision is to be a collection of independently compelling restaurants." 

So, while devotees will recognize hallmarks of the brand, this Earls ain't like anything they've ever seen before.

"From the moment it was conceptualized," adds Venu, "Earls King West was inspired by and created for the urban and trendy King West community."

Opened in late June, the two-story restaurant comprises three patios — curbside, streetside and rooftop — a solarium, various dining areas, a lounge and two sizeable bars.

Larger than its predecessor (the team took over three addresses to make the vision a reality), the space mixes heritage bones with skylights and snug seating, local artwork and the type of furnishings that are at once stylish and sturdy.

The same, it seems, might be said of the food. Dishes here are pretty enough for pics but hearty enough to satisfy.

Meant to feel familiar to anyone already enamoured of the brand, the menu at Earls King West was also designed to hold some amount of joy for every possible type of diner. It hops from shareable plates and bountiful salads to plant-based standards, and crowd-pleasing mains.

It's also, assures the team, highly customizable. With an army of staffers working around the clock to deliver the smoothest experience possible, Earl's King West is a place where the customer is (almost) always right.

A huge part of the Earls experience, cocktails rank high on most diners' must-have lists. Spirit-free options, like the herbaceous Gimlet Thyme ($12.25), ensure that teetotalers have something refreshing to clutch.

For their seatmates? Most of them, statistics would suggest, will be gripping a Nitro Espresso Martini ($16.50). "Outside of margaritas, this is definitely the most popular drink," says Regional Director of Operations for Earls, Adam Simpson.

In fact, the team requires so many (more than 1000 per week, according to Simpson) that it now leans on a Ketel One Espresso Martini machine to ease the strain of shaking up gallons of the drink by hand.

With house cold brew, Ketel One Vodka, Kahlua and simple syrup, it's a cocktail that's bracing and smooth, with nitrogen adding what Simpson calls, "a creamy, rich mouthfeel."

A group of seven, including seasonal treats, Earls' margarita list ranges from the classic frozen to a chichi Crystal Margarita ($18.50), made with nothing more than Maestro Dobel Cristalino Tequila, Dry Curaçao, concentrated lime juice and black gold salt.

The spot's second-most coveted sip? Launched at Earls King West for the grand opening, it's an aromatic, vacation-vibey Coconut Mango Margarita ($17.00), made with coconut and mango simple syrups, fresh basil and green lime salt for a wallop of herbs and fresh fruit in every drop.

Created by chef David Wong, the menu at Earls King West is populated by "items inspired by world travels," explains Venu. From Europe and Asia, to North and South America, there's few places not referenced on the lengthy list.

Top-selling Angry Chicken Lettuce Wraps ($20.75) arrive heaped with sauce-glossed fried chicken nuggets, pickled veg and crisp rice puffs. More sweet than fiery, these are nonetheless a satisfying way to begin.

Saddled by a surfeit of shellfish, a Seafood Tower ($135) is a grand way to turn heads.

Each features two frosty tiers loaded with pudgy Merasheen Bay Oysters, ahi tuna tataki, crispy prawn rolls, shrimp cocktail and lobster tails. Creatively topped, über fresh and accompanied by the team's house yuzu mignonette and cocktail sauce, this tower feels like a new take on an old standby.

From there, an extended list of mains takes several minutes to explore. Hone in on a favourite, then consider your add-on options. Depending on the main, these range from dry-cured bacon and avocado to prawns, caviar, tofu, even conservas.

Bolstered by ahi tuna ($8.50), a Sesame Citrus Noodle Bowl ($21.75) is a citrusy, savoury tumble of sustenance. With fresh cilantro, sesame citrus chili dressing and Asian pear purée, it's a decidedly tasty way to get your veg.

Salmon + Feta Caper Aioli ($38.75), meanwhile, is the type of light, straightforward dish that's better than what you make at home but won't provoke feelings of guilt.

With jasmine rice and seasonal greens, plus a textbook fillet topped with lightly pickled fennel and bull's blood microgreens, it's clean and crisp, if a little ho hum.

Craving something more titillating? Truffle + Steak Tortellini ($44.75, with a 6 oz prime sirloin) is the type of meal that's creamy and calorific, filling and an ideal foundation for whatever the night brings.

Open until 2 a.m., seven days a week, Earls King West is as suited to intimate date nights as it is to dinners with friends and epic nights out. It's a spot guests can laze in over lunch or brunch, can pop by during happy hour, for dinner or for a nightcap.

In short, says Venu, "you can discover something different and have a different experience every time you join us."

Earls King West is located at 601 King Street West.