Contrada wants to do something a little different from your typical Italian restaurant: showcasing that Italian inspiration comes from a lifestyle, not just some old nonna's recipe.

Bred from the passion of childhood friends and Toronto fine dining aficionados Mike Vieira and Patrick Groves, along with their business partner Jessie Mak, the team's plan was to take inspiration from the Italian ethos of cooking — using local produce and setting their menu by season.

From their interior to their dinner menu, and even the cocktails in between, nostalgia for our city's very own Italian-christened 'hood plays a major role in Contrada's inspiration.

"We've lived in this city, we've worked on this strip … The biggest inspiration for the menu came from dishes or chefs or styles that we've enjoyed eating in Toronto," says Chef Mike.

"We aren't tied to any authentic, regional Italian food … It's important to us to take everything with a grain of salt and do everything with a touch of whimsy."

Rather than imitatively trying to inject an Italian flare into everything they do, the team at Contrada are using Italian ethos — locally grown, locally sourced; genuine appreciation for the ingredients and practice — at its core, and College Street's charm as a referential backdrop.

An ode to the romanticization of Italy rather than Italy itself, if you will.  

Classic romance is instantly felt the moment you enter the corner spot. Moody, dim lighting and flickering candles draw your eyes to the same kind of exposed brick wall and wood panelling you can no doubt find in every house lining Euclid Avenue.

On a Wednesday evening, 1970s classics like The Guess Who and Steely Dan are playing, heightening that charming nostalgia the owners are pushing for.

And it works: the space feels intimate yet unintimidating; timeless and not gaudy. "In five years, this is still gonna be relevant," says Chef Mike.

Contrada's menu items vary from complex and elevated, to simple and reminiscent of well home-cooked meals.

Start the night off with less common fare, like their earthy Duck Heart Spiedini ($13), featuring a porcini glaze and sopressata sauce, balanced well with a slight hint of spice.

If a vibrant taste is more your thing, the lightly cured Tuna Carpaccio ($21) perfectly marries the bright Italian condiment tonnato and fried capers with bitter Belgian endives and lemon balm.

Take a more classic route for your mains, like the Pork Chop alla Milanese ($32), with a buttery lemon and caper sauce, topped with cheesy arugula.

The bone-in, Ontario-raised chop sits tall at the table and looks like something the likes of Tony Soprano would happily feast on. It's simple and approachable in flavour — surely an easy crowd-pleaser.

Pasta is, of course, on the menu as well — this is Little Italy, after all. Skip your typical Bolognese or Cacio e Pepe, and instead take advantage of Contrada's uniquely constructed menu.

The Chicken Liver Agnolotti ($24) is incredibly decadent. Plump dumplings are stuffed to the brim with a bold mousse, whose rich brassiness pairs well with sage, aged balsamic and blistered onions.

Paired with dinner, Contrada's notion for whimsy is seen clearly in their cocktail menu.

Traditional cocktails that have connotations of being masculine or stuffy get a "neo-traditional" spin of modern, unexpected flavours.

The boozy classic whiskey and amaretto Godfather cocktail is elevated with fermented mango, pandan and absinthe, and aptly named "Ang Padrino" ($19) instead.

If your usual order is a Campari spritz ($17-18), Contrada takes a unique approach to theirs. Instead of being poured one ingredient at a time, they serve theirs from a nitro tap which heightens the sweet and fruit drink's effervescence.

The wine menu is no exception to the high level of curation that Contrada's team puts in.

Italian wineries are highlighted on the list, with an emphasis on thoughtful producers who take their intervention intentionally and ethically.

Mike and Patrick say that sure, it can feel intimidating to open an Italian restaurant in Toronto's Italian neighbourhood — especially when you're not Italian. 

But luckily, they've found themselves nestled in and accepted quite naturally by the community.

Contrada is located at 537 College Street.