Chica’s Nashville Hot Chicken is bringing their version of gigantic, crunchy, fiery hot fried chicken to Toronto.

Serving the spicy birds up with homemade sides, Chica’s takes up residence in what used to be the somewhat neglected Concourse Diner corner spot.

When I enter I’m pleased to find no “major rehaul” or “revamp” has taken place design-wise: the diner atmosphere of the place has been left largely untouched save Basquiat-esque patterning on the walls.

It’s all old school booth seating with a assembly-line-style steam table counter on one side. Large corner windows let in lots of light, and mirrors set into the ceiling keep the retro vibes flowing.

Meals start at one piece of for $14.25, your choice of breast or thigh (i.e. white or dark meat), served with one side, white bread, pickles and their buttermilk ranch dip.

Of course, you also get your choice of mild, medium and “hot AF.” Mild seasoning has almost no heat at all, really smoky with ancho powder, garlic and smoked paprika. The medium is a bit more of a challenge but not outside the realm of typical spicy food.

The hot teeters on the precipice of intolerable, just slightly painful enough to keep spice addicts coming back for more.

All chicken is local and free-run. A traditional method of dipping the fried chicken in spiced oil and then seasoning it with their own special powdered blend for a two-pronged heat attack.

As big as your head, it demands to be eaten with your hands, oily, crispy little flecks of fried chicken skin flying everywhere, moist, juicy, and steamy hot on the inside.

My favourite way to eat Nashville hot chicken is to tear off little pieces of white bread, top with chicken and pickle, and consume.

You can also drizzle your chicken with or dip it into the homemade buttermilk ranch dip, which really brings the ranch flavour in its truest form with real dill and chives.

Hot wing lovers can test their mettle against a pound of whole wings.

Sides include a thankfully creamy coleslaw that cuts heat well.

There’s also a bean and corn salad that’s more on the spicy side itself.

Then there are waffle fries that are slightly less traditional than the usual crinkle cut, stiff and seasoned with perhaps an overabundance of sea salt to accompany a meal that’s already so thirst-inducing.

Chica’s is co-owned by Matthew and Carolyn Pelechaty, the former of which once worked at renowned Adamson Barbecue. When I visited he was still toying with the hot seasoning, importing Carolina reapers from the US, so it can only get hotter from here.