Blue Bovine is a steakhouse cut from an ultra-modern cloth.

Dynamic, luxurious (and yes, eye-poppingly expensive), it's a place that elicits a wealth of opinions, and already has people scrambling to secure a seat.

Liberty Entertainment Group's newest trophy, Blue Bovine occupies an enormous space inside Union Station.

Look for the 1500-pound bronze bull statue at the corner of Yonge and Front Street West, and you'll know you’ve arrived.

Notable for its substantial pedigree, Blue Bovine also has the added cachet of celebrity backers.

A fact not lost on the curious, it was created in partnership with the ever-polarizing financier Kevin O'Leary, of Dragon's Den fame, and (even more thrilling for local sports buffs), Mitch Marner, of the Toronto Maple Leafs.

The restaurant also boasts a menu that’s already proven successful at sister spot, BlueBlood Steakhouse, at Casa Loma.

"We took what we knew was popular and successful at BlueBlood, what people always come back for, and put it here," explains executive chef Sean Blomeley, who first joined BlueBlood Steakhouse in 2019.

Beyond the steakhouse appetizers and classic salads, diet-be-damned sides, flambéed entrées and desserts, the menu offers up a who's who of choice beef from around the globe — from Canadian AAA and USDA Prime to Australian Wagyu and Japanese Kobe.

Near the kitchen, diners can catch a glimpse of the tidily arranged offerings, wet- and dry-aging in a Himalayan-salt-lined room as they await their turn on the grill.

Also tucked away in that cozy space? A covetable golden statue awarded to restaurants that have earned the certified seal of Japanese Kobe. If one thing is clear, it's that, when it comes to steak, the team at Blue Bovine isn't messing around.

"We buy the best meat you can get," emphasizes Blomeley.

"When you go to a place and they put seasoning and spice on steak, they're doing that because they have a poor quality product. It's smoke and mirrors. We use good quality salt and a super, super hot grill. We let the meat speak for itself."

What sets Blue Bovine apart from its sibling, is a striking sushi program, helmed by award-winning sushi master Yi-Joo Na.

"The clientele at BlueBlood and the clientele here are quite different," explains Blomeley, adding, "I personally think chef Na is the best sushi chef in the country."

Under chef Na's direction, über-fresh seafood is transformed into a selection of creative rolls, sashimi and nigiri offerings. Steak not your thing? Book the restaurant's sushi bar for a one-of-a-kind Omakase experience.

Despite its classic approach to food, Blue Bovine flaunts a wayward approach to style.

Never one to shy away from statement art, luxe finishings and a riot of focal points, Liberty Entertainment Group VP and creative director Nadia Di Donato has created an energetic space that's at once lavish and relaxed.

Divided between a lounge, bar, and dining room, Blue Bovine's vast room is grounded by earth tones, and textiles — from tweed and leather to natural cowhide — inspired by place and purpose.

Contemporary pieces, including some by artist Fabian Fröhly (aka Mr. Pinkbrush), sassy fixtures and a 4000-bottle wine cellar clue diners into the fact that this isn't their daddy's steakhouse.

Aged Cheddar Gougères with chive butter hit the table with cocktails that run the gamut from traditional to innovative but always err on the side of high end.

Basil Hayden Bourbon, Taylor 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, bitters and a dash of maple syrup combine in the team's take on an Old Fashioned, the Front and Centre ($27).

Figgy and rich, with a hint of citrusy sweetness, this drink rolls with appetizers as well as it does with desserts.

A bright, woodsy alternative to a mojito, The Limelight ($25) is a zippy blend of Strega liqueur, Hendrick’s Gin, cucumber, rosemary and lime.

With Empress Gin, Orange Curaçao, lavender syrup, lemon and egg white, the Lavender Haze ($24) is a lilac-hued looker that scads of diners will want to get their hands on.

Moving on from the bread service, sushi whets the appetite for everything to come. As fresh and creative as it is beautiful, each item from Chef Na's menu is served to the tune of oohs and aahs.

From the signature maki section, the Area 65 roll ($47) finds snow crab topped with scallop, a flurry of crispy taro slivers and caviar. Dipped gingerly into house-made soy, it's a roll that might ruin you to your usual order.

In a kaleidoscopic array of colours, Chef Selection Nigiri Sushi ($65) and à la carte sashimi (MP) arrives on a glowing bed of ice, with flowers and delicate garnishes boosting its already considerable visual appeal.

Graze leisurely and take in the nuance of fatty o-toro tuna and rich Ora King salmon beside the sweet bite of Hamachi, and more.

It's about the beef, not the presentation, but the hellishly hot rock accompanying thinly sliced Kobe Beef ($28) is a sight to behold.

A scorching stone that sizzles and steams as it approaches, it needs only to cradle each meat morsel for mere seconds to cook it to perfection.

Topped with a speck of Japanese peppercorn and wasabi stem chutney, each bite is rich and deeply flavoured, zesty and sure to leave you wanting more.

When a wildly marbled Kobe Filet Mignon ($250) or the team's Hennessey-flambéed Australian Wagyu Tomahawk ($480) feels like overkill, opt instead for the 22oz Canadian Prime Bone-In Rib Eye ($140), from Erin, Ontario.

Served with three types of salt — fine pink, smoked Maldon and volcanic ash — it's the simplest of dishes, executed flawlessly.

Exactly rich enough, Sautéed Spinach with Quail Egg ($20) and golden, tender Polenta Squares ($20) are easily shared and provide a break from the meat — though just for long enough.

So you don't pull in quite as much as a professional hockey player? With a lunch menu, happy hour and pre-game offerings, Blue Bovine isn't all about excess.

There are plenty of à la carte dishes here — each prepared with choice ingredients — that won't break the bank. Plus, when the day arrives for that tomahawk, you'll know where to find it.

Blue Bovine is located at 65 Front Street West, Unit 108.