Barba
Barba is an intimate restaurant and wine bar from the team behind Simit & Chai and popular brunch spot Pasaj.
Located in the heart of Toronto's Entertainment District, Barba is a Mediterranean evening affair, taking inspiration from the Aegean Coast of Turkey. The menu showcases several quality cocktails and shareable mezes with everything from a traditional lentil ball to beer-battered fried mussels.
The 23-seat restaurant shares the space of one of the Simit & Chai bakeries on Duncan Street. The heritage building has somewhat of a grand entrance that makes the small spot feel not quite so small.
Inside is dark and moody, with a beautiful exposed brick wall and an impressive bar displaying their bottles of wine.
For drinks, I love a French 75 ($15). The refreshing and citrusy gin cocktail was made with pomegranate.
Another bubbly option is the Hugo Spritz ($16). It's made with St. Germain, Prosecco, soda, and fresh mint.
Staying true to their roots, the Bosphorus Martini ($15) is crafted with a rich and flavorful Turkish coffee.
And of course, you can't go wrong with a classic Old Fashioned ($16).
Whatever you choose to sip, creating a cozy spot to do so is what Barba is all about.
"In places like Istanbul, drinking culture is always very intimate. Everyone's chatting and talking to each other. It's a very good and warm vibe. We wanted to create that." shared John Ulgen, co-owner of the establishment.
John and his partner Dee Ulgen, co-owner and chef, started in the hospitality industry 9 years ago with their other ventures but always had the idea of opening an evening spot.
They wanted to create a place where their family would want to eat, but more importantly where everyone feels taken care of.
"The name refers to that one person who makes sure the food is coming out correctly, the drinks are poured right, that everyone is checked on and spoken to. That's a barba," said John.
For the food, we sampled and shared a little bit of everything.
The Bread and Butter ($10) is a great way to start the night. The homemade sourdough comes with Urfa chilli and thyme butter.
The Olive Field ($12) is a marinated olive tapenade with olives from Turkey. It's creamy and salty and goes great with the crunchy cinnamon bites baked fresh from Simit & Chai.
The Feta and Cantaloupe ($14) dish is bright and refreshing. The feta is brined in Raki, the national drink of Turkey. It has the slight taste of licorice and goes well with the sweetness of the fresh melon.
Next up, the Cyprus Rocket ($14), a plate of grilled halloumi with fresh tomatoes, pomegranate molasses, and bee pollen crunch. It's topped with a shishito pepper. You have about a 1 in 10 chance of getting a spicy one!
Borek ($16) is a pastry made with thin, flaky dough. Made fresh per order it's light and airy, and filled with the classic savoury combination of spinach and feta. It comes on a bed of creamy honey yogurt and is served with roasted chestnuts.
One of the standout items on the menu is the Fava ($16) — and no, my fondness for it isn't just because it shares my last name. This popular dip combines fava beans, marinated garlic, and red peppers, and features anchovies from the black sea. These super salty fish fillets have a distinctly strong taste, so if fish isn't your thing, this might be one to skip.
The Lentil Ball ($16) is a traditional dish, inspired by Dee's mother, whose lentil balls were a beloved staple at holiday gatherings. The lentil ball was tender and flavorful with a crispy exterior.
If you love fish and chips, try the Fried Mussels ($18). The bite-sized mussels are done in a beer batter that makes them crispy and light. They're served on top of a bright and briny tartar sauce made with walnuts and yogurt.
There's also Charcuterie ($22) on the menu. This jam-packed board comes with dried and cured meats such as sucuk (spicy sausage), as well as, a sour cherry jam, kasar (hard cheese), and house pickles. The board itself is made from a beautiful olive wood from Turkey.
Another great option to share is the Tartare ($22). Made with a bavette steak, it's a classic rendition with shallots, pickles, and mustard. On top is a delicate quail egg, just waiting to be cut into.
For something more substantial, you can't go wrong with the Burger ($22). Inspired by the duo's favourite diner burger from The Apple Pan in Los Angeles, this is your all-American chuck patty with lettuce, pickles, and cheese. It comes with some irresistibly good herb-tossed fries.
Finally, the Rack of Lamb ($26) is not to be missed. These chops get tenderized in a marinade of milk and beer for 36 hours. It comes with bulgur and a smoky, sweet red pepper and walnut muhammara sauce.
Barba is located at 19 Duncan Street.
Fareen Karim