Gloria in the Great Hall
Gloria in the Great Hall, formerly Astoria, is West Queen West's French American bistro. Taking up residence on the first floor of the historic Great Hall building, it replaced Otto's Bierhalle which closed in early 2023.
In a calculated move, the folks at Bar Poet across the street joined forces with Adrian Montes de Oca of Milou to completely transform the space into a beautiful rustic bistro focused on serving classic dishes under the warm glow of golden lights.
Exposed brick, floral wallpaper, and gilded mirrors give a sense of opulence of a time that once was- while seating is mainly high stool islands and booths fashioned out of refurbished pews.
Start your night with a glass of champagne and ease into the space while looking over their expansive paper menu that doubles as a placemat. It's one of the prettiest menu's I've ever come by- illustrated by designer Ryne Monleon.
There are two types of oysters available for pairing with champagne, from the East or West coast of Canada. These are small shucks and half a dozen is $22 while a plate of a full dozen will run you $44.
A must order here is the house bread and coin butter ($9.50) that has been branded with the signature A. Special moulds were made over a period of months to perfect the shape. The bread has a texture that's a cross between challah and sourdough giving it soft pull apart stretch.
The menu is split into shareables for the table, supper plates, and big sides to accompany. The Baby Gem Caesar ($23) is well-balanced, with a lavender, mint, horseradish crema coating the lettuce. Lemon is served wrapped in muslin for easy seedless squeezing.
The Steak Tartare ($24) comes on a neat plate of toasted baguette slices, cornichons, grainy mustard, and a perfect yolk on a bed of shaved cheese. Mix well and scoop up a bite size portion on a piece of bread.
The Escargots ($18) come mixed with mushrooms and topped with baked cheese. It's softer than your usual snail dish, thanks to the moisture and butter. Dip the house bread into the juices in the pan to get the most of the dish.
The Charcuterie Plate ($33) is always a solid option for groups- toasted milk bread slices come with three types of cheeses and meats, pickled asparagus, beans, honey, and sweet grapes.
The French Onion Soup ($17) is perfect for those colder nights, warm baguette chunks soak up the flavour, waiting to be scooped up and devoured with every spoonful.
A small Staub pot of mussels cooked in a rosé sauce comes on a plate with shoestring fries, in the classic French style ($26).
On the dinner side, a must try is the Entrecote Steak ($85). Ribeye is cooked to a beautiful medium rare with herb shallot compound butter and peppercorn sauce. Sautéed spinach and fries fill up the rest of the plate to soak up any runover juices.
The Astoria Burger ($28) features an angus patty layered with shredded lettuce, gruyère, and onions in between a sesame brioche bun.
Another favourite was the Mushroom Agnolotti ($30). Porcini stuffed ravioli sit in a umami white wine cream sauce consisting of oyster, beech, and porcini mushroom. Topped with a generous amount of pecorino, it's also a great vegetarian option.
If you're in more of a sandwich mood, there's the French Dip ($28). Braised beef and melted swiss cheese come in a roll ready to be dipped in a au jus sauce. Refresh your palate with a peperoncino in between bites.
The Braised Shortrib ($32) comes on a bed of mashed potatoes. A grape tomato sauce covers the beef, and a crispy fried pearl onion offers a nice textural balance to the tender meat that melts in your mouth.
Add on an Aligot ($14) if you're a fan of piping hot potato and cheese. It's a super French dish you won't find easily in the city.
Charred Broccolini ($12) was seasoned to perfection and would pair well with most dishes on the menu.
Gloria also has an equally large drinks menu with over 50 types of bourbon and whiskey available to pour, and more than 30 types of gin. There's a mix of classic cocktails and signature creations.
The Espresso Martini ($18) uses casamigo reposado tequila and coffee liqueur to concoct a strong coffee sip.
The Passionfruit Sour ($18) is a flowery, rose-like drink. Raspberry liqueur gives this drink a pretty pink colour. Gin, lemon, and egg whites make this a smooth expereience.
The Lavender Mezcal Margarita ($18) is bound to be a classic. Butterfly pea blossom in Empress gin gives the glass a pale pink-purple tint. A Himalayan salt rim and a large edible flower adorn the top.
Cucumber Collins ($18) was my personal favourite. A mixture of gin, cucumber simple syrup, elderflower liqueur, lemon, and soda keep this drink refreshing and light.
The Pear Martini ($18) is a fun twist on the well-known classic. Grey Goose pear vodka, bianco vermouth, and Licor 43 which gives a nice cinnamon and vanilla note are shaken and served with a cheeky pear chip.
Finish your indulgent meal with decadent dessert, from a choice of Crème Brûlée ($14), Cherries Jubilee ($9), or Chocolate Mousse ($14). I personally loved the mousse, as the blueberry compote that sat on top cut through the rich chocolate perfectly. Check out Gloria for a welcoming and intimate experience at 1087 Queen St W.
Fareen Karim