Charlemagne Cocktail Bar
Charlemagne Cocktail Bar, tucked above the new French brasserie Cafe Renee, continues with the establishment's European flair — this time, taking you on a trip to London.
Not grandiose or gimmicky, the entrance to this King West spot's secret bar is the kind of riveting secret you'd hope for from a classic speakeasy.
Heading up the unassuming front stairs of the restaurant's main floor seems to only provide you with a peak of their teeming kitchen window, where you can catch the pros in action.
But a luminous and glowing frosted window off to the side beckons. With just a knock, you're brought into a world absolutely contrasting its downstairs sister space.
Leave behind the astir crowds and platters of stacked food for this sexy, sultry space, mellowed with dimmed lighting and swanky jazz.
Charlemagne boasts a masterly and experimental cocktail menu, helmed by Beverage Director Angus Edmundson, who previously slung Insta-worthy potions at Toronto’s top cocktail bar, BarChef.
Despite the impressive rep, Angus is in the midst of the floor and hands-on behind the bar, a svelte shadow amongst the crowd and his fellow staff.
Dressed in "Peaky Blinders"-esque attire, the moment you enter the room the charming staff have you feeling swooped under a wing and tucked into a precious nook (literally).
We're first presented with the Verona ($24), from Angus' selection of what he's most proud to show off, and we shamefully try not to fawn over the impressive rectangular ice cube that takes up the whole glass, before we've even had a sip.
At first glance, one would anticipate a martini's flavour profile: bitter and liquor-forward.
Instead, divine sweetness. A smooth, cotton candy-like note catches the tongue while you curiously stare down an olive with each gulp. The olive represents the green olive leaf-infused gin, that's paired with Aperol, Cointreau, lemon, lime leaf and tonic.
The moment the Flying Honeymoon ($26) reaches us, our confused and suspicious eyes dart around the room to see if anyone's questioning us — or rather, questioning the white, powdery substance atop the drink's spoon.
Worry not — it's ground white peppercorn, to pair with bell pepper-infused white rum, mezcal, Blanco vermouth, and lime leaf.
Just bringing it up to your nose, you're instantly hit with a bold vegetal kick; if a strong and smoky drink fits your preference, this is the one for you.
Immensely green and crips in flavour, you're provided a faint dash of sweetness thanks to the rum — but only faint; prepare yourself for a mature, robust drink.Another boozy sip is the Gilded Rose ($25), with rose-infused Fino Sherry, agave, Strega, gentian made in-house, verjus, salt and champagne.
Incredibly tart, my nose tickles with every sip from the bright astringency. It's no unexpected surprise — verjus is a juice made of unripe grapes and crab apples, among other notoriously sour fruits.
If the dark nature of the room was lulling you into slumber, a sip of this punchy beverage will wake your senses right up.Caught up in the opulent yet cozy atmosphere of the room, tucked away from the city though smack within it, we persuade one more drink out of Angus and his team (though it's not hard — he's proud of his product, and knows it deserves to be indulged).He caps the eve off for us with a sweet treat: the Bird's Punch ($25).
Inspired by his UK heritage and childhood, Calvados, Benedictine and Angostura blend with cinnamon, lemon and — of all things — nutritional yeast and what's been titled "Bird's custard".
I'm anticipating a hit of the savoury, nut-like flavour from the yeast and an egginess from whatever I think "bird's custard" might be (I'm pleased to note Bird is simply the brand name, with custard being the operative word here). And yet, it tastes nothing like I imagined — it tastes like my childhood.
Silky and creamy, there's a warm wintery spice in there from the cinnamon that glides by your palette under the prominent sugariness of the drink.
Though I know his creation stemmed from a London inspiration, I'm instantly reminded of the Portuguese tarts I wolfed down as a child, packed with citrusy and spiced notes among the egg custard; there's even a pastry crust flake topping the ice cube here. It's worth the splurge; there's an intimacy to it, drinking in someone else's memory only to have the punch's liquid flood you with your own.
In fact, intimacy seems to be Charlemagne Cocktail Bar's specialty.
From snuggling hip to hip at their petite bar or getting enveloped in the dark of the deep-set booths, be prepared to lose yourself for a little while in this fever dream of a space. Charlemagne Cocktail Bar is located at 100 Portland Street, on the second floor.
Fareen Karim