Piccolo Piano Pizzeria
Piccolo Piano Pizzeria is a nighttime destination for wood-fired pizzas and cocktails on tap.
An extension of the original Piano Piano across the street, Piccolo hones in on chewy 10-inch pizzas with impeccably blistered crusts.
Owners of what used to be Café CanCan have replaced the soft pastels of the boujee brunch spot with this gaudy pizza palace.
After dark is when the place—in all its vintage animal-printed, chandeliered flashiness—really comes to life.
The “Pizza Is Life” neon sign (inspired loosely by the “Football Is Life” quote from Ted Lasso) behind the bar gives this red-washed restaurant an extra vampiric glow.
Come for the vibes but stay for the pizza. These striking sourdough pies have pillowy soft and leoparding crusts: a result of high hydration dough, 72 hours of fermentation and a 1000°F oven.
After just over a minute in firey temps, the result is pizza that’s thinner and lighter than the pizza is next door.
The menu includes six pies, $22 each. The Hawaiian comes with tomato, mozza, pineapple, ‘Nduja and basil. The pepperoni is topped with perfectly cupped Ezzo, mozza and cherry tomatoes. Pretty tear-drop chilis give an extra kick. .
Small shareables include bites like the Octo-Dawg ($16), an octopus in a potato bun with pickled jalapeño.
Mozza Caviar Stix ($29) are basic mozzarella sticks but zhuzhed up with creme fraiche, chives and ossetra caviar.
A pair of east coast oysters of the day ($8) are Raspberry Points from P.E.I., served with watermelon radish, coriander and XO sauce.
For drinks, there’s a small wine list, but the cocktails on tap are most interesting.
Get a smaller size ($8) or a full glass ($16) of negronis or an Italian Manhattan with rye and Angostura bitters.
While executive chef and co-owner Victor Barry has grand visions for Piano Piano—expanding to 100 stores, maybe, why not—Piccolo will remain as its name suggests: small.
Fareen Karim