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Cafe Renee

Cafe Renee, a wickedly charming French-inspired restaurant, is the latest venture from the team behind Astoria Great Hall and Bar Poet – so it's no surprise that in its first opening week, it went viral.

Whether you caught videos of their uniquely formatted drinks and dishes, or shots of their adorable converted-house exterior, it felt like this new resto-bar came out of nowhere yet immediately went everywhere.cafe renee torontoThe team seems to have an inexplicably skilled knack for nailing down a Parisien flare, as entering the delightful space is a wildly transportive experience.

If you visited this spot when it operated as a location of the coffee shop chain Jimmy's, it's a feat to prepare yourself for entering it now.cafe renee torontoIntimate thanks to its low ceilings and plush booths, yet airy and light from the atrium back area and rows upon rows of white glistening subway tiles, it doesn’t feel like anywhere else in Toronto – but certainly takes me right back to a visit to Rue St. Dennis in Paris, France.

As the night ascends, the contrast between the crowd dining here and the interior are a pleasantly amusing juxtaposition.cafe renee torontoYour classic King St. crowds of boisterous young friend groups and after-work colleagues meeting up with a clamour of high fives contrasts the dainty, romantic interior.

It adds to the life already breathing deeply in this new space.

The first viral sensation of the night reaches our table, and to no surprise, it's in the form of an espresso martini – the current elixir of the "in-crowd".cafe renee torontoA separate section of the cocktail menu at Cafe Renee is dedicated to espresso martinis (they know what they're doing around here), but the Creme Brulee ($18) rendition is already the must-order.

Topped with bruleed sugar (yes, you are going to want to grab a seat at the bar to watch these get made all night), a hint of maple gives a sweet pucker to the vodka and espresso combo that goes down smooth.cafe renee torontoFor something on the fruitier side, begin to coax the charm out of the evening with either the Binotto ($18) or the French Terrace ($20).

Rye, Fernet Branca, and a jammy, musky combo of strawberry and lemon top a rose-shaped ice cube in the Binotto.

For the baby's breath-adorned French Terrace, apple balsamic shrub is the prominent taste, lending a dark and tart flavour to the sweet Calvados, St. Germain, Oolong tea tincture, and lemon and soda.cafe renee torontoAs someone with a minimal sweet tooth, the Il Abito ($21) was an excellent sip.

Bourbon, Amaro Montenegro and Angostura bitters meet black tea and sweet marsala; it's a slightly bitter drink, cold on the tongue but warm going down.cafe renee torontoFrench covers of old classics are a hum amongst the glowing room — Animal's "House of the Rising Sun" catches our ear — as generous portions reach our table.

The menu is stacked with familiar French classics, though there's a much-appreciated Italian influence to several dishes. Where French cuisine lends a fatty richness to the plate, the Italian touches provide a bright respite.

cafe renee torontoAlong with the expected Steak Frites, you can grab a handful of meat-forward dishes at Cafe Renee, like the Steak Tartare ($20) or the French Dip ($25).

The comfortingly familiar tartare is whipped up with a mild egg yolk truffle mayo, scoopable on gaufrette potato chips; pickled accoutrements are a welcome addition for some much-needed boldness.cafe renee torontoThough it isn't the viral dish yet, the French Dip sandwich is an unexpected visual showstopper.

A larger-than-life crusted skirt of gruyere coats a baguette brimming with roast beef, caramelized onions, and confit garlic. Of course, the standard au jus drippings are on the side for dipping.

Pro tip: I'd recommend breaking off the crusted cheese and distributing it inside the sandwich, adding a crunchy and unctuous element to every bite.cafe renee torontoThe pastas here have been the star of the online show, catching phone cameras and eyes alike thanks to their amusing presentation – particularly the Ravioli du Dauphine ($20).

A full sheet of uncut ravioli is presented, drenched in a reduced butter sauce, olive oil, parmesan, and black pepper. Those little squares are exceptionally addictive; sweet and salty, it's simple in ingredients yet requires nothing more.
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Though it doesn't state it, I detect – and appreciate – what might be some caramelized onions as well.

Cafe Renee's Chef de Cuisine Josh Ling walked us through the pasta's process, a dish that stemmed as an homage from a trip Executive Chef Nick Liu (of DaiLo fame) took to New York City.

cafe renee toronto"It's a labour of love, really; it's one of our highest prep times, it takes our guys [a really long time] just to make the pasta dough, rest it, make the filling and then fill all those," chuckles Chef Josh. 

"But to see the reactions everyone's giving [the dish], it's worth it."

If you're looking for a lighter pasta dish, the stunning Ricotta & Spinach Gnudi ($20) is on the opposite end of the taste spectrum. Equally simple in its ingredients, the flavour profile here is incredibly clean and homey.cafe renee torontoA green goddess butter sauce and peas coat generously sized doughy gnudi, bursting with that creamy light cheese and earthy greens.

It's likely just one of these dishes will fill you up beyond a level you'd imagine a hip King West spot could provide – but if you have room for more, I highly recommend what might not catch your eye on the menu, but what instantly caught everyone's eye in the dining room: the Whole Fried Branzino ($50).

cafe renee torontoPresented semi-deconstructed, deboned with the individual pieces fried ensuring crispness in every corner, the fish is dressed in an olive salsa, preserved lemon and brown butter. Despite the heavy fry, it's in no way dry at all; every chunk bursts in your mouth.

That zingy olive salsa and sweet, slightly nutty brown butter are an unexpected flavour combination, welcome after the rich pasta dishes.cafe renee torontoThough the meal ends leaving us insurmountably stuffed, you can't close the night at 100 Portland Street yet. 

Head up the front stairs, but don't get distracted by the bustling kitchen pass; instead, look for the discreet black door and find yourself in Charlemagne Cocktail Bar. cafe renee torontoAt Cafe Renee, the cultured streets of France meet old-world ingredients from Italy, and it all merges harmoniously with a North American city flare.

Yet, there's just one lanugage spoken amidst the restaurant: that of a good meal, shared together. 

"To finally see people in this room, enjoying our food and having these positive reactions — it's heartwarming," says Chef Josh.

cafe renee torontoCafe Renee is located at 100 Portland St., on the main floor. 

Photos by

Fareen Karim


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