Taste of Tandooree, the new Indian restaurant in Parkdale , has barely been open for a month, and it's already become a pleasing fixture of my week.

Its position on Queen West, just west of Dufferin, makes for an ideal mid-way point in the inevitable segue stumble under the bridge that results from a westward bound bar crawl along Queen.

Until now, Parkdale hasn't had the best selection of late night eating options for the decidedly unsober. Finding yourself there, bleary eyed and empty bellied at 2 a.m usually meant a coin toss between pizza and the convenience store.

Thankfully, Taste of Tandooree has interceded. The neon 'open' sign of this canteen style, unadorned gem stays on until 6 in the morning and it's a welcome sight indeed.

A decently varied but not overwhelming selection of in-house made, traditional Indian food makes up the menu. Limiting the options to pakoras, samosas, curry and naan, as well as a small but enticing dessert menu keeps the deliberation to a minimum and the food turnover high.

We start with a plain lassi ($2) which is refreshing and not overly sweet.

I order the Karahi Gosht ($7.99) which is made with goat and generously ladled with enough sauce to keep our accompanying tandoori and butter naan breads ($1.25 each) well occupied.

As the pistachio kulfi is sold out, I get the gulab jamen ($2.50 for 2 pieces) instead. It turns out to be a fortunate substitution. The dough-like, deep-fried milk balls are loaded with cardamom and have just enough delicious rose scented syrup on top.

They're also accompanied by a generous side of what looks and tastes like a delicious portion of payesh (milky rice dessert).

Getting change from $13 for a very tasty drink, entree and naan combination (that is too much food for me to finish!) means I'm inevitably lured back the next week for more value-for-money eats.

It's not a habit that I'll be in a hurry to break.

Take away is available.

Photos by Jeremy North-Lewis