Marky's BBQ Smokehouse has taken over the Mad Mexican 's previous address on Jane St. in Baby Point. Going it alone now, Marcus De Simone, a.k.a. Marky (of the now defunct Marky & Sparky's Smokehouse) is back in business dealing meaty delights from the takeout counter and a licensed dining room with seating for 30.

Fans of Marky & Sparky's will find familiar favourites plus new menu additions like pulled chicken, smoked sausage, smokehouse chili and smoked trout.

Try the new chili and smoked sausage in one sitting by ordering the chili cheese dog ($9). The Italian fennel sausage (supplied by Sorella in The Junction), is juicy and plump - it's casing audibly snaps with the first bite, while the chili comprises torn chunks of brisket studded with kidney beans in a smoky gravy.

Have a stack of napkins handy, you'll need it. This is the kind of food that'll make you grateful that the new joint offers seating, and best of all you can wash it down with a pint of Steamwhistle or Great Lakes brew.

Freshly-fried sweet potato chips are a simple pleasure that I've been chasing ever since Walt's (the Richmond Hill precursor to Jack Astor's chain) discontinued serving complimentary baskets (suburbanites of the '90s know what I'm talking about).

These delightful crisps with a side of curried mayo are totally worth forking over $4, even while overlooking more substantial sides like the baked beans ($5), Mac n' cheese ($5), and biscuits ($2).

I'm told the beef brisket is one of Marky's most popular menu items - those already initiated will be pleased to know it's still sold by the half pound ($12), in meat pies ($8), and in sandwiches ($10) as well as newly incarnations like a Philly Cheese Steak ($12) dressed with onion jam, sautéed peppers and smothered with provolone and cheddar.

Vegetarians should sit this one out. De Simone might be related to the owners of vegetarian-friendly Greenwood Smokehouse , but he himself isn't so accommodating. Meat (and some smoked fish) are his niche, and otherwise there's but a handful of side dishes and salads available.

Photos by Jesse Milns