California Burritos, located on College and McCaul, is the latest quick counter service for the UofT student on-the-go.  A nice change from the sub shops and pita places that dot this row. But in a city where a good taco or burrito is becoming increasingly common, will they cut the mustard -- or mole?

On first glance, I noticed more people working behind the counter than actual customers. Never a good sign since it was the dinner rush. The counter area leads to a modest sized back room with ample seating. The graffiti'd walls actually displayed talent rather than some tacked on gimmicky 'street stylez.' When I approached the manager about who the artist is, I was greeted with a shrug of shoulders and "some university kid." My respects for the work accomplished and for putting up with this level of gratitude. As our night progressed, these visuals sadly became the most appetizing aspect of our meal.

We decided on the tried-but-true chicken and steak burritos (Sm 6.96 or Lg 8.95). A bolognese burrito was offered but the image of an Italian meat sauce wrapped in a tortilla both confused and nauseated me -- that's not California Style.  A Cali burrito, or more appropriately Mission Style, named for the famed San Francisco barrio, deviate from the Mexican counterpart by adding: cheese, beans, rice and wrapped in an extra-large flour tortilla.

Sadly there was only one choice of beans, I think refried. Hard to tell since the substance had long since congealed and hardened in it's chafing dish. The rice was an off putting white. A blatant indicator to it's lack of seasoning. Since the tortillas were never steamed before being wrapped and then subsequently grilled, the lack of pliability caused them to blister their contents as we ate creating a messy situation.  Sadly, this is all too common in Toronto.

The steak and chicken were both prepared as carne asade which worked well for the steak but dried out the chicken. I wish they offered a braised pollo dish like tinga to shake things up. Maybe my tongue is calloused but the hottest salsa available is what I consider mild; however the hint of Chipotle was a nice, and only authentic, touch. The tomatillio, aka green salsa, was one of the worst I've had.  What little flavour it did have was a pucker inducing vinegar burn. Besides the meat, everything tasted like it came out of a jar -- gummy and bland. Â

Mexican food in Toronto is tricky since most of the offerings are all very average. This lowers the bar for people's expectations but more importantly restaurants feel they can get away with the littlest of efforts -- or just opening up a can of Hernadez.

Photos by Peter Henderson.