The Flying Elephant Bakery
The Flying Elephant Bakery is a cheery, family-run biz in the Beaches that can be found in the former home of Life is Sweet (the cupcake shop has moved a few blocks west down the street). It's also clearly a family-friendly spot, with a corner by the few tables in the shop set aside with toys to keep kids occupied.
Owner and chef Betsabe Bustillos loves elephants, so her husband suggested a circus theme for the space; the walls are painted to look like the inside of a big top tent, vintage images of carnival performers serve as decor and the downstairs bathrooms are labelled as "donikers" - circus slang for "toilets."
Samples of custom-made cakes can be found on display by the log cabin-like back walls. They start at $30 and require at least three days' advance notice (or a week, if it's a wedding cake).
Bustillos, who's originally from Venezuela, studied French pastry back in her homeland along with international culinary arts, and worked as a pastry chef in Caracas before she and her family moved to Canada for a better life. She met her husband Daniel here (he's originally from Colombia), and together they decided to pursue her dream of opening her own bakery.
Typical North American and European goodies like cupcakes, cookies, croissants and quiches are baked and sold, but the offerings that pique my interest are the Latin American items that Bustillos also makes in the back kitchen.
One of the most popular desserts here (and one of my personal faves) is the tres leches ($5.50), which is Spanish for "three milks." Sponge cake is drenched in a trio of milks (evaporated, condensed and whole or heavy cream), and then topped with whipped cream and cinnamon, making for an extremely moist treat.
This tres leches is a little soupier than I'm accustomed to, but I like that it's not too sweet. Bustillos also makes a milk chocolate version ($6), although she tells me she still prefers the traditional one herself.
A slice of Peruvian lemon pie, or pie de limón ($4.75) is almost like lemon meringue pie, with a base of crushed biscuits, a citrusy custard filling (Peruvian limes are kind of like key limes) and a thick layer of meringue that has a top toasted a golden brown. The crust is soaked in a syrupy sauce, and the whole thing has a nice balance of tartness and sweetness.
Something I've never tried before is Colombian roscón ($2.50), a sweet bagel-like bread filled with guava paste inside. It's lighter and softer in texture than it looks, and it's only available on Fridays and weekends.
Of all the items we try, our hands-down fave is the savoury and sweet flourless corn cake ($3.50). At first I assume it's covered in coconut flakes, but I'm surprised to learn the cake is actually topped with shredded feta cheese.
The corn cake can be eaten as is, but we prefer it heated up, as the warmth adds to its intriguing mix of textures and flavours. I enjoy it so much I buy two more to take home with me for later.
To accompany the baked goods, there is coffee (espresso/Americano, $1.50; latte, $2.50; cappuccino, $2.75) using 100% Colombian beansfrom local roaster Mountain View as well as tea ($1.50), but the best thing to order is definitely the huge mug of creamy Venezuelan hot chocolate ($3).
It's certainly not your average run-of-the-mill hot chocolate, and contains secret spices (cinnamon? cloves?) that Bustillos' father (her parents help out at the bakery) doesn't wish to divulge. He enigmatically tells me they use different techniques to make the drink (I assume they don't use powder but melt real chocolate instead) but won't elaborate further.
Bustillos is always adding new offerings and changing things up seasonally, so heading into the Flying Elephant to discover what's new will be a constant adventure. She and her husband decided to open the bakery here because they used to live nearby and they love the neighbourhood and its residents. I'm sure the feeling is mutual now.
Photos by Hector Vasquez .